Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

drift_skills_flyer_2011_final.jpg

Victorian Drift Club - DRIFT SKILLS

~ Saturday 9th of July 2011 ~

This is an OPEN event for all (VDC membership not required)

Format:

- Beginners day at the DECA Skidpan

- 3 classes of 15 students

- Rotate through drifting basics such as controlled donut, controlled figure 8 and handbrake maneuvers

- Class runs from 9-5, with 1hr catered lunch provided

- 2 instructors per group

- Drivers must arrive by 8AM to begin registration, scrutineering and drivers briefing

Location

DECA Skidpan

145 Wanganui Rd

Shepparaton

Victoria

This event is NOT open for spectators, strictly drivers and pit crew only. Vehicles cannot carry any passengers with the exception of the Instructors

Driver Prices: $229 (covers entry fee and lunch)

ENTRIES NOW OPEN

Please go to following link to register online : http://vicdrift.com/site/index.php?option=com_dtregister

PRE-ENTRY and PRE-PAY is COMPULSORY AT ALL VICDRIFT EVENTS. ENTRIES CAPPED AT 45 drivers

CANCELLATIONS : We require notice via EMAIL to [email protected] by 8AM of the Thursday prior to the event, or you will forfeit your entry fee. For this event we require notice by 8AM 7th of July. We have been running this system since 2010, no excuses. If you miss the cut off you will not be given a refund.

Acceptable Licenses are: AASA or Cams L2NS - No license means no going on the track!

On the day purchase of AASA license:

AASA license $50

(Can be purchased at driver registration on the morning of the drift day. This needs to be done before you come into the scrutineering bay to register and have your car scrutineered as entries will not be accepted without proof of license or receipt of payment)

Please note : VDC board members will be checking aasa and cams licenses, this year we will be checking everyone. Please ensure all your licenses and memberships are valid.

The usual requirements as always are:

*Long sleeve and long pants of non flammable materials i.e. No Nylon

*Closed footwear

*Helmet that complies to Australian Standards (has ASA or Snell Sticker)

*Car needs to be in a good condition, no oil leaks, no loose items in the car and battery secure. It must pass scrutineering to be allowed on the track!

*Working seat belt/s (give it a pull and make sure it locks)

* Every car must have the correct amount of wheel nuts:wheel studs. Get it right before you get to the track!

* All cars must run some form of muffler/resonator/catalytic converter on their car. You only have to run one of the mentioned forms of a spark arrester.

* All forms of wastegates on turbocharged vehicles are ALLOWED

* All cars must ensure their exhaust exits past the perimeter of the car, "dropped pipes" are NOT ALLOWED

Basic Scrutineering Guide can be found here:

http://www.vicdrift.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=674

* FIRE EXTINGUISHERS ARE COMPULSORY AND MUST BE FITTED CORRECTLY IN THE CAR AND WITHIN EASY REACH OF THE DRIVER!

Can't make this one, see below for the rest of 2011 events:

http://www.vicdrift.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1104

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367542-drift-skillz-learn-to-drift/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

would be keen for this IF my car was capable of sliding

You have an R32 GTS as in your profile? You can slide that no problem. ;)

My track car is an R31 and that tears it up! I also have an R32 GTS-25 that drifts no problem.

Get out there and try it!

5846642019_c4a94c3b31_b.jpg

No, you really have to drive Alex's car...it's incapable of sliding lol. Even the handbrake fails!!!

nah its completely capable now birds, put coilys in and hicas lock bar, the only thing that i need to slide is to weld my diff, which will be done very soon :thumbsup:

handbrake is nice and tightened up too!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...