Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys been a while since I have had issues with this 32 but have just noticed a slight ping in third it's at about 4500 5k ish it's not constant and its a not always there I have had skylines with detonation issues before but this one never has missed a beat so just after suggestion to help me brain storm...

The car has the following mods

Splifire coils

Greedy cooler kit

Rb25 turbo

Walbro pump

Tomie fuel reg

Stock ecu 3" exausht straight through

That's the main ones

My first plan of attack is

1. Check timing from memory should b 10 degree BTD correct?

2. Run ecu for errors

3. Fuel filter change

4. Run fuel doctor through the tank

5. Check plugs

6. Check fuel feed and return lines

That's where I'm at ATM any suggestions much appreciated

Cheers BOOZTJUNKEY

^^^^gotta stop posting while half asleep lol doesn't make sense...

Well last night I ran fuel doctor through what fuel I had left (just under a quarter tank ) and I noticed that the pinging got worse as the tank got lower was also detonating in fourth gear also ?

So am thinking it's definitely fuel related but will still check timing tonight and run ecu for errors then reset

It's got my frustrated this car has been a soldier so hopefully it's minor

Also what's the life spans on walbro pumps ? I replaced just on two years ago is it possible its kicked the bucket this early ?

Just checked the timing is at 15 degrees which is sweet that's where it should be ...

I reset the ecu also didn't have time to check for errors but if it's shooting codes no doubt it will do it again if there is an issue ....

So has to be fuel related maybe the pump is dying gonna put a gauge on my sard fuel reg and see what the pressure is at the rail should be 43.5 psi with the vacuum line off and bout 20 psi on idle with the hose on the from memory ? Any One confirm this ?

Edited by BOOZTJUNKEY

Alright just an update I was working away for 9 months an lent the car to a mate before I left I fully serviced

New plugs(iridium plugs )

Fuel filter

Oil

Oil filter

Water pump

Timing belt

New filter for my hks pod and re oiled it

It was due for 100 k service anyways soi lent him the car

And told him to maintain it whil I was gone he racked about 15000k did the oils and filters every 5000k but never changed the plugs

Nowy question is what's the lifespan on iridium plugs I have never run these in any of my other 32s I only got these because they were in the car when I got it.. I normally run the copper bkr6e plugs whic I change every 5000 anyways so is it possible I could have a dogy plug cause they are so old ?

Possibly over fueling cause the plugs can't produce the spark needed to burn the fuel causeing over fueling and detonating when it finally does combust

Yeah its on my list after fuel filter and plugs but it's a Tomei reg that was set up when the car got dyno and hasnt been touched since so unless the reg has got a fault I'm not sure what else would be an issue with it ?

After I do the plugs and filter and check the pressure I'm gunna swap the pump just to be safe :-( and rule it out FML

Iridium plugs are supposed to be for 100,000km or something like that, but that is in a family car. They also supposedly don't spark as well as coppers do. I'd check your plug gap and reduce it to 0.8mm and see. If you do that to iridiums be careful not to scrape the iridium coating off or damage them, they are [or so I've been told] more 'fragile' than coppers. I binned mine a while ago, not sure if it helped, but it def didn't hurt and I'm at a power level where I don't want any doubt in the back of my head.

You probably need to get your fuel pressure tested......a 5 minute job at most workshops, they can do it while U wait. This will tell you if enough fuel is getting through and help point to the weak link [fpr, pump, filter].

Yeah I have got a set of coppers for the car now bkr6e they have been all of my other 32s except this one it had irridiums when I got it so just stuck with em ...

Changing plugs and fuel filter today and will see how it goes after that if no good I might go down to my mates workshop and see what he can do

Thanks for the reply

  • 1 month later...

I know it's been a while but an update on this is called for

Things I have done

Changed fuel filter

Plugs (bkr6e) old plugs seemed good no excess carbon or anything and wernt extremely dry like it's leaning out really bad

Hooked a consult up check the sensors and ran for errors with everything ok

And put a turbo smart fuelpressure gauge on the car

Now this is where it gets Suss

The fuel pressure was a lil low so pulled hose of and tried to adjust to 43.5 psi it should be but it won't go higher than 40psi?

And with the hose connected again it sit around 30 psi at idle which I think is a lil high cause it's suppose to sit around 20psi with the hose on and 43 psi with the hose of so I know it's a fuel issue but just dunno if it's the reg or pump also have been checking the pressure regularly now and a couple of times I have it's just been sitting on 20 psi on idle

And just over 30 psi with the hose off or starts spiking past 35 then back to 30 psi and won't hold stable but then just randomly comes good and buy this time I'm like WTF lol ....

Honestly am leaning towards the reg being faulty maybe a faulty diaphram ?

Also since I upped the pressure I seem to get more back fires/pops in between gear changes (not full throttle just driving normally and mainly at night when it's cooler)

as soon as I get hold of another standard one I will change it to see if that helps but that's where I am at I know Its an epic thread but if my experience can save someone else from scratching there head and forking out unneeded money than I'm happy

Cheers

Edited by BOOZTJUNKEY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...