Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

cool glad you like it! :cheers: I have all the door trim/rear 1/4 panel and the headrest branding dies done will do the branding in he next week or so....i should have the body back from the blaster then aswell so will update then....i will mow straight into the body and hopefully get it knocked on the head pretty quick

Edited by ylwgtr2

oh i also got all the bright work done....a true work of art done by western metal polishing in sunshine.They bumped the few small dings out of the bars and stainless trims,copper plated the bars/doorhandles then double chromed them and polished the moulds....they look like mercury....they did an amazing job....will post some pics up

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

ok so i saw a genuine GT the same as mine and managed to get a pic of the seat .....it seems they used a different font on the savanna on the seats as to the 1/4 panel badges......so now armed with this its back to the CAD to refine my original design....according to my homework this headrest was only used on this series car so i was very lucky to be able to take a look at this original one in detail

gallery_2711_155_135222.jpg

How easy/hard is it getting that old stuff for the Mazda's? There seems to be SO many being restored around the place (admittedly most are sporting rear tubs and drag racing gearboxes.....) that you'd assume someone is making parts again for them such as reproduction badges etc

genuine stuff is getting harder to get( and more expensive)Im constantly amazed to what pops up for sale though.....there is a bunch of repo stuff available....some really good....some not so good....for instance you can get repo door trims but they are not 100% correct....there is a lot of mazda guys that want to whinge at some of the repo stuff but personally i say well something is better than nothing....I been trying to get as much genuine stuff as i can (which i must admit....ive done quite well)other stuff that i cant get,im prepared to make.I could use the door trims,but im lucky enough to have the CNC machine centre so i can make the dies ect....with the stuff i deal with at work takes quite a bit of attention to detail and is time consuming so im used to plugging away at something till its of pretty good standard.I like to think of myself as a bit of an improvisor....Im also lucky enough to have a huge number of friends that are the same so between us we tend to come up with solutions......I think of things like this.....a group of guys once made it(many years ago i might add),so a group of guys can reverse engineer or remake it(especially in this day and age when we have easy access to precision robotic devices and good materials)

Edited by ylwgtr2
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...