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rebuilding is a straightforward option too, the only thing to keep in mind is non-genuine boots are likely to be much worse quality rubber and need replacing about 10x as often. -
By GoHashiriya · Posted
Yeah, great guy that Matt, giving very comprehensive emails with quick responses. He told me it’ll be plug and play for the ECU, which may potentially get me out on track at 600kph by the end of the month or June. Anyone wanna buy a HKS SLD.. -
I was looking into the uniclutch, as something that doesn't rattle, dampens and holds horsepower is the dream. They didn't seem super confident on the power holding though. Could just be covering themselves, which is understandable. "The 10in sport Uniclutch can handle a peak of 1100Nm at the flywheel, not sure how that translates to HP. As for the power output of your engine, I would suggest holding for the UniClutch Track, I feel the 1000HP will have a higher torque rating then what the Sport will be able to handle, We have fitted prototype track clutches to a number of street/track test vehicles now and have found pedal effort to be reasonable. It is very similar to OE pedal feel. and would fall within the torque capacity of the Uniclutch Track." The track clutch loses the dampening and rattles(?) I believe though.... don't quote me -
By GoHashiriya · Posted
I think this is applicable for most. My car was ~2,000,000 JPY in 2020 Total expenses are around ~5,000,000 JPY excluding fuel. Selling price could be anywhere between ~5,000,000 JPY to ~7,000,000 JPY depending on how desperate the American. Sure, I could have stored it in that time but there are still storage costs “carry costs” as we call it in industry - insurance, garage, electricity, maintenance, etc. and possibly made 100% (nominal return), but I don’t think that’s why most of us are here. Apologies for the deviation. -
I don’t think they’re rated to hold that power
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