Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If your machining them and have access to a mwither well then cut them into a C an make a few different thickness pairs ;)

You'd be surprised how easy they are to change at the track and what a good running tool it can be once you are looking for that little extra grip in the rear without effecting the front too much.

Thanks for your advice Brad, much appreciated :)

Ended up spending a couple of hours on the lathe on Saturday making some aluminium spacers and bushes for the rear

We machined up two 4mm aluminium spacers to put in the rear of the subframe.

We're going to take your advice and make up a few 'C' shaped spacers for the rear of varying thickness's.

img1907e.jpg

img1910w.jpg

  • 2 years later...
  • 2 months later...

Some of you had made up some spacers for the rear subframe. I had done the same but 4mm all around. I see you tried different thicknesses and that someone mentioned 2mm up front (of the rear diff) how did that work out and what was the final spacers used? Did you have to make them into wedges so everything cleaned up evenly when it was different heights or they just fit right?

Also, my brake lines are banjo tight and the car is up in the air meaning its just too tight and may bust when dropped back down anyone else had this issue with these? Or it could be my N1 diff flanges are longer than stock...

Why did the Gibson nissan/bathurst GTR's have welded plates into the top and bottom of the subframe bush locations with crush tubes if it was going to make the geometry worse??? My mate did the fab work for their cars back in the day and said they wanted to get the subframe as high as they could. Think they couldn't change the arm mounting points? Can't remember...

All the money of a race team or randoms off the internet. I know who I'd be trusting.

So many people waste time and money on here. Why they just don't go and talk to the right people I'll never know. I learnt more in an hour with this escentric bloke than I ever learnt off the forums in 10 years.

Look at Nemo. Race car builders built a car and it was fast...wow who would have expected that....

Btw Steve's built 4-5 bathurst winning cars incase you wondering it he has a background in racing. That was his life for 20 years.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...