Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls, well it is a sad day indeed for me. I am selling my GTR as new baby is here and there is now a need for me to get a somewhat normal family car (Prado in this instance) and also because my back just aint what it used to be after surgery. Never mind though because what is a sad day for me could be a very happy day indeed for someone else who is in the market for a genuine 32 VSpec II.

OK so here is the run down....

I have owned this car since it was imported in 2008 and it has never missed a beat. It is not 100% standard as when imported it already had some modifications done (see below). It is only used as a daily driver to and from work and on the occasional cruise. Always garaged but it does have some minor blemishes from stones being flicked up etc, basically the stuff you can't avoid happening to any car but I just don't have the time to fix it.

Ok so here are the list of mods:

- full Kakimoto exhaust including front pipes

- NISTune ECU (running safe 240RWKW on 1BAR boost tuned by Trent at Status/Chequered Tuning) can also throw in a consult cable and laptop with the nistune software on it if needed

- Apexi pod filters (have standard airbox with K&N panel too)

- Apexi Boost Gauge

- Momo Steering Wheel on a works bell slim boss kit (have slightly worn standard wheel too)

- AUS Spec Tein Super Street coil overs with Nolathane Upper camber kit fitted 1 year ago at Centreline Suspension

- Nismo twin plate clutch with lightened flywheel

- Nismo front strut brace

- Full Nismo body kit incl full side skirts, rear lip spoiler and bonnet lip

- Car is running EBC Redstuff ceramic pads on factory Brembo brakes

- has darkest legal tint (35% tint-a-car Midnight Express)

- Standards Approved alarm/immobiliser

- Pioneer CD with iPOD control, front splits, rear 6inch speakers, removable boxed sub in boot, 4 channel amp plus monoblock amp for sub.

Car is regularly serviced and maintained with Synthetic oils, have receipts for all australian modifications made. No accident history. I will obtain a RWC prior to sale this way you can be assured that it is current.

Any more Q's give me a call or shoot me a PM.

Jarrod 0402-316-156

PRICE IS $26900 ONO

post-50346-0-08231600-1308444114_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-68426100-1308444730_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-93299300-1308444647_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-19270000-1308444649_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-25982400-1308444687_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-44319500-1308444688_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-92813900-1308444690_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-72235000-1308444689_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-35986200-1308444650_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-78801800-1308444652_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-36826000-1308444693_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-59168400-1308444694_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-56561200-1308444645_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-86238700-1308444646_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-59977100-1308444651_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-16529600-1308444692_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368233-1994-r32-gtr-vspec-ii-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

here are the pics as promised.

Clear coat peel on a pillar drivers side

post-50346-0-14843800-1318743665_thumb.jpg

Drivers seat tear from my jeans pocket zipper

post-50346-0-46638900-1318743667_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-95992700-1318743669_thumb.jpg

Rear Passenger door trim

post-50346-0-26660600-1318743672_thumb.jpg

Rear Seats (perfectly fine)

post-50346-0-26968400-1318743674_thumb.jpg

Rear Bumper drivers side

post-50346-0-72100500-1318743675_thumb.jpg

Front bumper passenger side

post-50346-0-58454100-1318743677_thumb.jpg

Front Bumper driver side

post-50346-0-76768700-1318743679_thumb.jpg

Side skirt rear pod driver side

post-50346-0-62735400-1318743681_thumb.jpg

Engine Bay

post-50346-0-81082700-1318743683_thumb.jpg

Tein Aus Spec and Nismo strut brace

post-50346-0-46211800-1318743984_thumb.jpg

Intake Plenum

post-50346-0-51573800-1318743986_thumb.jpg

Engine Cover

post-50346-0-48727400-1318743988_thumb.jpg

Apexi Pods (have standard airbox too)

post-50346-0-85905800-1318743990_thumb.jpg

Driver side chassis rails from rear to front

post-50346-0-62667300-1318743992_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-64622200-1318743994_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-36514800-1318743996_thumb.jpg

Passenger side chassis rails from rear to front

post-50346-0-28385000-1318743998_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-12057400-1318744000_thumb.jpg

post-50346-0-99754000-1318744001_thumb.jpg

Any more questions let me know. I know it's not perfect but the issues are very minor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...