Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I got my 100k service done with the kudos kit. I got it done at a well known mechanic in the Wollongong area.

I lowered my idle revs the other day with the plastic screw (r34 gtt). The air flow one I think it is?

It was sitting on around 1100-1200 as that's how I got it.

I lowered it to the reccomennded 650 and since then I can hear a sorting of rubbing sound every now and then like it the timing belt?

Does this sound likely? Should I raise my revs? Take it back to the mechanic? Or is the belt just wearing in??

Hey guys I got my 100k service done with the kudos kit. I got it done at a well known mechanic in the Wollongong area.

I lowered my idle revs the other day with the plastic screw (r34 gtt). The air flow one I think it is?

It was sitting on around 1100-1200 as that's how I got it.

I lowered it to the reccomennded 650 and since then I can hear a sorting of rubbing sound every now and then like it the timing belt?

Does this sound likely? Should I raise my revs? Take it back to the mechanic? Or is the belt just wearing in??

I've had a couple of 100000 services done and no belt noise.They could of put it on too tight take it back and get them to check,better to be safe than sorry. :D

could me lowering the idle revs done anything??hmm i could be making myself think this but there may be a dip in power.oh really? hmm i like the first comment better then the second haha. i might give him a call.

no not at all.it sounds like a rubbing, you can only hear it on idle.its not a squeak its a rub and it does it over and over while idleing, as if when something turns around its hitting something. if that makes sense. i could probly do a youtube video if need be.

Ive adjusted my timing belt(gates belt) 3 times my self. First time it made a scrubbing kind of sound it was loud. Definitely too tight. Now its just down to a tame whirr which is normal if you are using a gates belt. A gates belt has almost no stretch and no room for tolerance. If you are running the belt too tight it will make noise right throughout the rev range as there is constant strain. Its a pain in the arse loosening it, pretty much everything off again just to get to the damn tensioner.

First time took me about 3 hours, second time to adjust took about 30 mins to pull everything off. I reckon I can do a full timing belt change on an R33 in about 1 hour now.

This is mine:

Most horrible sound my car has ever made. Its gone now and as I said just a faint whirr.

Edited by SargeRX8

simple solution, piss off the gates and get a genuine nissan belt! I had so many dramas with my previous skyline and the gates timing belt. All the mechanics I took it to said that it was normal and to let it 'wear in' and the noise would disappear. 8000km's later and it was still making that humming noise.

I have one of these belts on my own car as well, there are two different gates belts as far as i am aware, the one i have is the "race" version and is blue, it makes a light whirring noise, although your seems louder, or it could just be that my car runs a solid top end and jun cams which are quite loud and it may not be as noticeable.

provided the tension of the belt is ok, i cant see there being a problem, apparently very strong belts, hence the noise, but i wouldn't buy another one, the nismo seems to have the best rap, or genuine

100% belt noise, its definately tighter than it should be. Ill get a video tomorrow of how mine sounds. Its not loud(sometimes when warm it CAN get a little audible) but definately not that noticeable. It is if you stick your head under the bonnet.

And why the hell would you remove it? Adjust the tension, thats it. They are great belts, better than Nissans. Nissan belt is softer so it stretches a tiny bit to give the belt a tiny bit of play room. Get this tensioned right and she will be fine. Its not going to break, its not gonna snap, its not going to kill your engine if its fitted right. Noise is noise, its normal.

Get it adjusted and after a while you wont even notice the tiny whirr. Its inaudible from the cabin.

100% belt noise, its definately tighter than it should be. Ill get a video tomorrow of how mine sounds. Its not loud(sometimes when warm it CAN get a little audible) but definately not that noticeable. It is if you stick your head under the bonnet.

And why the hell would you remove it? Adjust the tension, thats it. They are great belts, better than Nissans. Nissan belt is softer so it stretches a tiny bit to give the belt a tiny bit of play room. Get this tensioned right and she will be fine. Its not going to break, its not gonna snap, its not going to kill your engine if its fitted right. Noise is noise, its normal.

Get it adjusted and after a while you wont even notice the tiny whirr. Its inaudible from the cabin.

+1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
×
×
  • Create New...