Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got the above forsale

Full Trust kit for RB25, manifold, turbo and wastegate $3800

will seperate kit $1800 for turbo

550inj straight bolt into rb25 fuel rail SOLD

I'm located near Sydney can take more pics if requested, email for more info

[email protected]

This turbo made 330rwkw at 19psi on a RB25, also did an 11.7 pass @ 128mph with a 1.97 60ft

Yes off my car, I think the turbo has traveled around 10,000kms but worse case it can always be rebuilt for $400 at gcg if anything ever went wrong, not sure of what turbo yet something a touch bigger though

Or im flying back to Syd for Easter, then driving back to Melb on Easter Monday...so free delivery for anywhere between Sydney and Melbourne if you buy the turbo/manifold and wastegate before Easter! :(

sorry pm replied to now, yep still for sale, I've been meaning to take pics of manifold and wastegate for the others that PM'd me I've just been busy and will do first thing on Monday sorry

Brett

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...