Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't thnk the traction control would help if anything it would make it worse.

In my R34 when the TCS kicks in it cuts power for a good second or so. So if it happened whilst he was on a steep driveay he wild just be sliding down slowly down the driveway :)

I only gave it some AFTER goin up a car length from flat area, then it started wheelspinning and not goin up, so i freak out n apply more gas hehe- and effectively doin a burnout!

Driving style in my opinion.

You didn't think to try get a slow roll happening before you hit the driveway?

& also did you try letting the clutch out with no throttle, getting a tiny little roll-on, or at least loading the driveline, then gently accelerating?

545nm, a wet 30 degree slope and no traction control. Yep, that'd do it.

+1

Did you try getting a little headstart? Reversing back then going at it hard?

"Get a bigger hammer" comes to mind..

Maybe you got a point, WLSPN, you could be right, I didn,t do those things, to the guy below you, VONCINA, ha ha yeah I tried that of course, all I got was massive wheelspin and burning rubber lol...

sounds like driving style is playing a bit of a part in it, and the stiff suspension may be playing a part if it isn't a smooth transition from flat to steep, mainly if you have to take it at an angle as the inside wheel probably has bugger all weight on it. a mate of mine had a ceffy where if you jacked up a front wheel the rear wheel on the same side would come off the ground it was so stiff.

was it spinning both wheels, or just one? if both then it is a diff issue as it isn't engaging the LSD. not saying that the diff is shagged, but it is worn.

to be honest, the tida should've had the most problems going up being fwd. all the weight would be over the rear wheels and the front wheels would be light. there is one intersection in town on a steep hill and if you try to take of with any sort of haste in a fwd it will spin the wheels. in a rwd car you can take off fast easily.

my advice would be to simply idle up it with bugger all throttle. keeping it off boost will drastically reduce the chance of wheelspin and it will be putting out much less torque than the lexus would be. if it still whelspins then it is your suspension and your diff.

If you were trying to go up slowly, then its not rpm or torque, because you regulate that with the clutch. Still suspension will definitely be a problem, as it will significantly un-weight one wheel, in which case you really need a working LSD to get any forward movement.

Any idea if both wheels were spinning or just one?

Don't know about that, my mate who was outside watching pointed out that the left rear wheel (outside of the curved driveway) was spinning but that was because he couldnt see the right inner wheel from his standpoint. I dont think its the diff/LSD because my car had straightened itself up on the straight part of the terrible slope and then wheelspinning like crazy. Which means both rear wheels getting equal grip at that time..

By the way my turbo kicks in around 2500rpm when it sees positive boost psi, by 2800-3000rpms it is at 12psi. Around 2500-3000rpms is what I would have been doing going up the slope after it started losing traction completely.... I would have driven in at 2-2500, it slipped, and then gone to 3000rpms and up to keep it from rolling back - but it never rolled back,. With the handbrake on and the car angled up the slope, I let the clutch out normally and throttle would have been 2500 and up - and massive wheelspin without movement.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...