Step By Step

[GTR-N1]

This thread is presented Compliments of JDM Performance aka Eugene.

Wash with Quality Car Shampoo > Dry with a Checkerboard Towel (rather than a Chamois) > Locating Marks and Swirls

Easier done in Sunlight

On Painted Carbon Fibre too

[GTR-N1]

Adding a Lubricant which facilitates the action of a Clay Bar

[GTR-N1]

Clay Bar removing pollutants, grime, particulate matter > hence making the paint smooth

[GTR-N1]

Rinse > Dry > Putting Car under cover with Fluorescent lights overhead to spot blemishes in preparation for polishing

Paint thickness is assessed before polishing.

Micron thickness of most Nissan cars is 80 to 120; but this car has had a full Japanese respray.

[GTR-N1]

A high quality Polish is used. In this case, it was Menzerna from USA.

The grade of polish can depend on...

a) thickness of the paint (see above)

b) condition of the paint

c) level of deterioration through sun/watermarks/tree sap/bird droppings/condition of the metal underneath

The success of the orbital applicator of the polish will depend on...

i) speed setting

ii) pressure applied to the panel

iii) whether or not the panel is made of steel, aluminium or carbon fibre (as a conductor of heat)

iv) angle of the pad

v) firmness of holding the machine

vi) movement of the machine

vii) grade of pad used

Masking Tape to protect unpainted areas

A softer pad was used on Painted C/F

[SS8_Gohan]

300+ is massive!!!

Menz is german made i believe, i spot 203s as well i think... nice

Eugene knows his stuff

[GTR-N1]

A high quality Sealant such as Zaino used to be applied (with it's nanotechnology) followed by Canauba Wax.

Nowadays, Optima brand which contains a combination of both the Sealant as well as the Wax is preferred (since Zaino had to be a applied with a certain knack lest it go milky).

Optima converts a two-step operation into one. It can be sprayed on, and then...

[GTR-N1]

For wheels, it's hard to go past...

Zymol Wheel Cleaner (applied with spray 'n companion soft brush) > allow to dry > followed by...

Zymol Wheel Coat (which is a mist) > allow to dry or wipe with a dry soft microfibre cloth

[GTR-N1]

For stainless steel exhausts, it's hard to go past...

Autosol Metal Polish (German) available from Autobarn

[GTR-N1]

For mouldings, it's hard to go past...

Meguiar's Rubber and Vinyl Cleaner/Conditioner #40 with UV protectants added. (Hard to obtain)

[Nee-san]

A high quality Polish is used. In this case, it was Menzerna from USA.

The grade of polish can depend on...

a) thickness of the paint (see above)

b) condition of the paint

c) level of deterioration through sun/watermarks/tree sap/bird droppings/condition of the metal underneath

The success of the orbital applicator of the polish will depend on...

i) speed setting

ii) pressure applied to the panel

iii) whether or not the panel is made of steel, aluminium or carbon fibre (as a conductor of heat)

iv) angle of the pad

v) firmness of holding the machine

vi) movement of the machine

vii) grade of pad used

Masking Tape to protect unpainted areas

A softer pad was used on Painted C/F

Holy shit Terry, you didn't half have a go !

Will be using this method when my next love session comes up

[GTR-N1]

Aw shucks Mitch! That's Eugene!

Just to recap...

* The clay bar makes the paint smooth

* The polish gets rid of swirls, hard water marks, scratches (and can protect from UV)

* The sealant makes the paint slippery (and can protect from UV)

* The wax physically protects the sealant and the paint

For insect 'goo' on your front bar and side mirrors; or grime on wheels...

It's hard to go past...

Turtle Wax Tar, Bug & Grime Remover which is applied before the "Wash" stage when detailing (because it contains kerosene).

[SS8_Gohan]

i know there is the wash your car with kerosene thread, but there are much less harmful ways to remove bugs etc

polish doesn't provide any protection, only the LSP will do that (last step product, sealant/wax etc)

i'd recap it thusly

- clay removes contaminants, industrial fall-out, tar spots, overspray, general debris build-up not removed via washing

- polish cuts a layer of the clear-coat to rectify swirls, scratches, water marks, fading, etc... will not provide any protection to the paint

LSP: Last step product, can be a combo of, and/or

- sealant. Physically protects paint. Generally not as aesthetically pleasing (gloss, depth/richness of colour, etc), but generally greater protection (longer, withstand more punishment). New nano-tech goes a ways to addressing the aesthetics whilst boosting longevity/protection

- wax. Provides protection but not all provide UV protection. Generally speaking more pleasing to the eye in terms of gloss, depth and richness of colour. Generally speaking the higher the carnauba content, the better the wax. Zymol Royale is around the 70% range, but is also worth $10,000+

A common LSP procedure is laying a sealant down for better protection, allowing the proper curing time (cannot apply another layer of anything, be it sealant or wax, straight away) and then layer a wax ontop for looks, aiming to provide best of both worlds. Not so much an issue with new nano-tech sealants these days.