Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I would like to re-introduce myself to the ACT SAU peeps after a 4 year hiatus on anything Nissan.

I'm Karl, and have recently purchase a black 1999 RS4S Stagea. Back then, I used to drive a 'violet-ish' (?) R33 and sold it to someone in Northside.. and since then did the Toyota scene..

I live deep in the south, Banks, and have see a few skylines down here..

Pics to come..

Look forward to the banter.

Cheers.

Karl

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368763-newish-act-driver/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

hey mate, you sellling your stagea???? cos i found this one carsales and they are pics of your car, same 260rs bumper, dolphin skirts and rearbar, NA grille the works. or is your dad selling it? interested in selling the kit? haha

HERES THE LINK

  • 5 months later...

Hey guys thought I would just share the positive experience i had with a panel beater here in Canberra.

I tip my hat off to Chris and his team at The Body Shop smash repairs in Geelong St, Fyshwick.

After being less than impressed with my insurance company with their lack of communication, I finally dropped off my Stagea with Chris on Monday morning and received a call on Thursday (yesterday) saying it was good to go at lunch.

The work needed was the scrape on the rear bumper (insurance) and the repair of the existing damage on the front lip. Chris mentioned there was previous work on the front which he tidied up, fixed the crack and stone chips and resprayed - all for a cash price too. He also included a quick clean and polish.. which seemed to go to waste as it decided to bucket down on the drive home.. mind you, if I wasn't babying the Stagea down every driveway and hump in the road I may have beat the rain.

I'll post pics tonight.

So there's my 2¢ on his shop.. I would recommended without hesitation.

Edited by S T A R 3 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
    • I didn't actually try it at the time but a Launch X431 with the appropriate software licenses/upsell will have the ABS bleed function. The Consult II you can still find some old sets of equipment but they're really, really expensive:   
    • Well I'll start by saying I'm not an engineer. I am going to go with the KiwiCNC ones.  They are made of 7050 alloy have good fillets and radius.  The material alone is in the order of double the strength and fatigue resistance - Those bolts, once torqued correctly place most of the load at the flat face of the mating surface - the 'stretch' you're talking about through torqueing them up would be far more than the extra stretch 'load' placed on them from a steering input or bump. (in my opinion) so I doubt they would flinch.    - but again "not an engineer".      oh and I don't think stitch welding 7050 is a good idea, likely just weaken the material (from what I read)
×
×
  • Create New...