Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just wondering if I can machine a HKS3037 Pro S cartridge into the housings? i went to per4manz in perth he recommended me the CHRA 700177-12, i was thinking of buying the cartridge from ATP from the states but they only offer these ones :

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=CHRA-GT3076R&Category_Code=

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=CHRA-GT3076R-WG-C10&Category_Code=

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=CHRA-GT3076R-WG&Category_Code=

any help would be great guys because im not sure which one to buy

Cheers

Chi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/
Share on other sites

Time to sell and upgrade IMO.

The existing housings would need to be machined to fit. Even if there is enough meat in the housings I think it would be a highly compromised setup.

By the time you sell your very in demand turbo kit you will be well on the way to paying for a new fitted GT3076.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5886397
Share on other sites

No you can't really machine out those HKS GT"2835" Pro S housings .

Interestingly HKS used the same turbine housing castings in 0.68 and 0.87 A/Rs but they offset the housing in the Lathe to do the GT3037 version because the full sized GT30 turbine has a larger exducer diameter and would have broken into the waste gates outlet flow path .

With port shrouded compressor housings the radial slot is machined to suit the height of the lower or splitter blades leading edges and most wheels are different .

The thing people used to do to get a bit more out of a GT2835 Pro S was to use the larger 0.87 A/R turbine housing if they didn't already have one .

A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5886739
Share on other sites

oh right, so pretty much disco i can't use any of the above CHRA's at all? cause my turbo builder said he could machine out the housings a little bit to suit the 700177-12 GT3076r CHRA but I had a read of your other thread and found that that is not the real GT3076r or something...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5886791
Share on other sites

I may have missed it but what sort of power are you making and what are you looking for ?

I would have thought a 2835 Pro S would've made quite reasonable squirt though they may lose you the bit right down low .

I think you're at point where changing turbos could be expensive and maybe other upgrades like say better cams could help a bit .

A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5887342
Share on other sites

hmmm well my cartridge is blown thats why im looking at upgrades disco...but i don't wnana buy a brand new turbo, so i was thinking get a 3076 cartridge and machine it in there cause it'd be the cheaper option machining will cost me from 100-200 and if i can get a 3076 cartridge from ATP for 870 its not too bad although i have been looking at KAMAK turbo's but thats too much messing around... the 2835 Pro S is good but im chasing more power lol somewhere in the 400+ ish hp, so disco in your opinion is the 700177-12 cartridge good for 400?

Cheers

Chi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5887412
Share on other sites

You should be able to get the -3 cartridge I mentioned above locally for around $1100 if you ask nicely. My new cartridge was installed for that price by MTQ in Sydney after a friendly arm wrestle.

ATP cartridge will need to add shipping which should still come under $1000 but still worth considering buying locally.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5887455
Share on other sites

Some mobs can rebuild Garrett GT BB cartridges and the economics revolve around whats worn or bent/broken .

The things that ae expensive are new turbines if the blades are amaged or the piston ring has eaten into its groove . When there is piston ring damage to the back of the turbine wheels hub you often find it in the same part of the cartridges bearing housing and its not economic to change both .

Buying locally usually costs a bit more but if the new item has issues getting exchanges can be more complicatede from OS .

New std cartridge is the way to go I think , if your heart is set on 300 Kw sell the 2835 and buy a GT3076R .

A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5888552
Share on other sites

Cartridge number 700177-12 is a GT30 turbine based one but with the 7/7 bladed compressor wheel in 56 trim .

It is not part of the HKS range of Garrett GT BB turbos/cartridges which includes the better version of that -12 cartridge from the 56 trim GT3037/GT3076r which is 700177-7 .

To confirm the GT2835 56T HKS turbos use cartridge number 700177-3 according to my lists/notes .

It should be in that list I posted some years back of most of the GT30 BB turbo family .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5889052
Share on other sites

oh right mmm cause according to your notes disco....

the 700177-3 is the 700382-0003 , 700177-0003 , 03) 2835 56T , 56.6mm 84T with .64 a/r

and from the ATP website the

700177-5003 CHRA - Garrett GT3071R-WG with 84 trim 56.5mm turbine wheel and 71mm 56 trim compressor wheel is same cartrdige?

I just need confirmation before i place the order

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5889072
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...