Jump to content
SAU Community

HELP: R33 Electric Window Winder (STUFFED)

R33_Cam

By R33_Cam,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

R33_Cam Proficient

R33_Cam

Posted
Posted

Has Anyone Ever had any trouble with an R33 Drivers window not going up or down??? im pretty sure its the motor, cause i took it apart and gave the motor a whack and it started working again.....

so my next question is:

1. Does anyone have one of these laying around, or know where

i can get one from.

2. How do you get the damn thing out!!!!, it looks pretty difficult

(Nearly Impossible) :hellpisse

Any help would be much appreciated

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Pull the switch out and clean it.

It tends to get a build up of crap on the contacts.

Mine stopped working then for some reason every now and again would only work when it was raining.

Cleaned it.. Worked Perfectly Since.

Maybe look at gettings some conductive grease, to prevent the build up of crap air moisture water etc..

  • 2 months later...
benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

Im having exactly these problems.

Bought my car '95 R33 GTS-T 10 weeks ago and the windows worked fine for about 4wks.

Then the driver side would stop/start/stop so i would just open/close the door or give a firm whack on the inside just near the up/down switches and it would work again.

Then it came good again, perfect infact.

About a week ago (the day i had my car in getting the windows tinted) it completely stopped working, i tried the whole way to the tint place to get it to work but it refuses to budge.

I'll have to pull it apart again and see if there is any dust or loose solders or anything but i really would just rather replace the part.

If ANYBODY can point me in the right direction to getting a driver side electric thingy-ma-jiggy to fix this problem please PM me immediately.

Edit: If i was to take the motor/electronic thingies out and give them to an Auto Electrician would they beable to hook some gadget up to it and find out the problem or would they need my car there as well to work it all out ?

Sil8ty Collaborator

Sil8ty

Posted
Posted

I jad the same problem, i cleaned the switch contacts etc..

What i found the problem was, (also a probelm i had in my 180sx) is the little module (dont know the correct name) that is located near the arm rest had a dry solder joint in it...

You can see it if it has (like it has been hot and the coating on the circuit board has moved away from the solder) i touched this up with a soldering iron and some fresh solder.

Now it works fine...... :uh-huh:

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted
sweet - sounds like a common problem with an easy fix. Now all i gotta do is fine someone that knows how to operate a Soldering Iron :(

Not too difficult...go down to Dick Smith. $20 will get you a cheapy, and maybe coupla bucks for solder. Plug it in via an extension cord, one hand on solder, other on iron, heat solder so it flows into the connection. Just being careful not to drip any excess on plastic or seats, etc (instaburn!)

Do some practice first away from the car just on some bare wires or whatever, but its easy to do. As long as the connections are fairly big (which I've always encountered on a car), its not hard to do. Very hard to screw anything up.

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

I took my door apart again on the weekend. The board that is attached to the switches i believe is the culprit, all other buttons work fine except for the driver side door.

I cant seem to take apart those 2 green electical boards tho, i've taken a screw out but can't seem to unlatch the other half of it.

If i post a pic of it can anybody tell me exactly which section i need to be paying particular attention to ?

Their were about 10 dirty solders but i scratched them off with my finger and the solder underneath looks fine to me although i can't see all of the electical board for the above reasons.

Any help would be great, im a driver that needs a constant air flow so my aircon is copping a hammering lately :P

Ozzy Enthusiast

Ozzy

Posted
Posted

I have the same problem...if I let the window go all the way to the stop (down)....it wont restart without toggling the sh%t out of the switch. I have found that if I stop the window before it goes all the way to the bottom, it will go back up no probs. I will get one of the nations finest boffins here at work to check it out and I will get back to you all.

benm...sounds like you may have scratched off the protective lacquer from the circuit board....which is no biggy, you will have to recoat after you've fixed the problem.:D

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Well it just cost me $175 today to get my left headlight fixed for my R31 because of dodgy internal switch.. so auto-elecs aren't cheap. Could be a motor problem it sounds like if it goes down like almost all the way, could be a pretty much anything problem. Sometimes i can fix stuff by looking at it - others not :D

Generally they use a multimeter to isolate the problem and work from there. If you take it to there with the door skin off they might be able to give you a quick diagnosis and give u an estimate of what needs replacing/cost. I'd leave it all intact.

Unless u can see obvious burn marks in the board it can often be difficult to track down the exact problem.

silverskyline Contributor

silverskyline

Posted
Posted

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM, MINE WOUDLNT GO DOWN, ITS MOST LIKELY THIS BLACK MODULE, PULL THE DOOR TRIM OFF AND FOLLOW THE WIRING TO A BLACK BOX ABOUT THE SIZE OF A NOKIA MOBILE[8210], GO 2 A WRECKER THAT HAS ONE ASK IF U CAN TRY IT B4 U BY TO C IF ITS THE PROBLEM. THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM IN THE GTST. PS.DEPENDS WHAT MODEL UV GOT, NOT ALL OF THE SKYLINES R THE SAME, EG SERIES1 OR 2

Ozzy Enthusiast

Ozzy

Posted
Posted

Silverskyline.....I take it this 'little black box' is not the switch module ....is it actually located within the door ????(as opposed to the door handle)....I have had the techo's look at the switch module and its definately not that....they suspect it to be some sort of microswitch or something that only engages when the window comes to a stop, as the problem only occurs (as previously explained) when the window goes right down.

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • GTSBoy
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...