Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The hybrid turbo built by Matt and others cost around $400 I thought (mainly for machining - use an standard R33 Turbo; the exhaust housing of a VG30BB turbo, and a T04 compressor wheel).

This is a budget upgrade as good or better than some of the $2000 hyflow options.

Enrico,

I've also noticed stocker RB25's holding together with bigger injectors at higher power levels.

When an injector is pushed to its limits the spray pattern is affected. Not all injectors may be affected it may only be one that starts stuffing up and may not stuff up straight away either.

This will hardly show up on AFR's as the AFR's are averaged out over the 6 pots.

Without good fuel atomisation you get a crappy burn/lean out hence why possibly detonation occurs which sends combustion temperatures through the roof eventually smashing ring lands. This is also why sequential injecton makes more power over batch injection, better fuel atomosation = better fuel economy & power.

I think.. :(

Enrico,

 

I've also noticed stocker RB25's holding together with bigger injectors at higher power levels.

 

When an injector is pushed to its limits the spray pattern is affected. Not all injectors may be affected it may only be one that starts stuffing up and may not stuff up straight away either.

This will hardly show up on AFR's as the AFR's are averaged out over the 6 pots.

 

Without good fuel atomisation you get a crappy burn/lean out hence why possibly detonation occurs which sends combustion temperatures through the roof eventually smashing ring lands. This is also why sequential injecton makes more power over batch injection, better fuel atomosation = better fuel economy & power.

 

I think.. :(

I'm with you Joel.

Some other ideas:

Maybe the pulsing of the injector starts to get chaotic at say greater than 90% duty cycle, or at even lower duty cycle but when it has high fuel pressures and you get insufficient fuel when under high load for longish periods like when winding up to 180km/h in fourth.

Maybe by raising fuel pressure (via Malpassi reg for eg) you also reduce flow to injectors as higher pressure for the same given fuel supply = less flow according to flow dynamics I think. But some people say that with big fuel pump like Bosch 044, the fuel supply presssure and flow is so huge it should be OK.

Maybe by using a reg to give you high pressure you also cause differential pressure drop across rail from one side to the other or within the rail and say cyl 1 or 6 gets less fuel than others but as Joel said it won't show up in average A/F ratio out the tail pipe.

With big injectors, you get high flow at low pressure which I think is better and it gives the right spray pattern and even fuel supply across rail.

BTW RBVS, Joel also might know more about rebuild options as he's doing one now for RB30.

I think of it as an injector having an efficiency range + or -.

When you get out of the efficiency range it simply starts dumping the fuel in not spraying it.

Hence why SK states the RB injectors don't have trouble with was it +15% extra fuel pressure?!?! I can't rememeber. He's said or typed :( it a few times now.

+ the fact of if the injector is running a high duty cycle it is obviously going to valve bounce if you like (Tims words).

yea i was thinking about what you said with cars with stock injectors dont seem to last. Also i think it is the spray pattern not covering evenly , hence other spots on the pistons not being cooled.

freebaggin: i have been looking into the rb30 bottom, just have to check iv got room to move 30mm up.

yea if anyone can give a price or advice for building a 25 or 30 bottom end would be help full, just the build as im going to try slapping the head back on and dropping it back in to keep cost down.

Dean, might I suggest saving for upgraded injectors and not trying to push the stockies to mid/high 200rwkw levels! Take it from me mate, an extra 1k or so (for 550's) now is better than replacing a piston or two down the track.

Do a search and see how many RB25DET rebuilds have occured with stock injector, bigger turbo, GTS25t's. I got away with it for a while. I "may" have got away with it for longer with a very conservative tune? I use to post on here supporting the 044, reg and higher f/press combo. Not anymore!

Of course if you'd like to go the whole hog, do forgies, lower the comp ratio and go for big boost... then go for it mate! It's heaps of fun :D

yeh matty, ive had a big think about it, and everytime a rb25 ringland goes, everyone blames it on the tune. only recently did u guys think it could have somethin to do with pushin the stockie injectors too far. this could definately have adverse effects on spray pattern.

u had stock inj when engine went

boostd was the same.

there are probably many more cases.

needless to say, i think once my car is retuned, ill keep it like that for a while then think about a bigger turbo.

cyas

G'day gobiz, my turbo is a bit of a bitza. Sorry I can't give you any hard and fast data on it :D

Here's what I do know:

It's a plain bearing Garrett based T3/T4 with a T04E 0.60 comp housing and a 0.64 exhaust housing. The exh wheel is quite large and it's been backcut. The exh housing has been machined out to fit. It has what those in the know stated as a very big comp wheel squeezed into the T04E housing.

On my engine the turbo has damn near the same response as a HKS GT2835ProS. With a touch more power and a quite a bit more peak torque (similar boost). Same dyno same day.

whatsisname, this turbo wouldnt be suitable for rb20 would it? i dont care if boost doesnt come on till 3500-4000 at the moment. mite be swapping till rb25 in the future. is the exhaust housing similar to vl turbo? or just a .64 sized t3 off the shelf item? what boost are your running?

Matty, is your turbo the same as Boostd's (Mat's). If I recall the specs on his were as follows:

used an standard R33 Turbo; the exhaust housing of a VG30 BB, and a T04 compressor wheel. Vtrim Comp with groove in comp cover snout. Exhaust bored out to flange.

machined at Russel Engineering.

If not, bo you have any info on how your turbo compared with Mats

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...