Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys need a reliable auto electrician to come and have a look at my R33 as i think i might have damaged some electric parts when trying to jump start the car yesterday. I put the cables the wrong way (i know stupid, but hey shit happens) and had some smoke coming from inside the car dashboard. The car does not start at all, it will not even crank, all other electronics work in the car if the key is put in ignition.

So yes anyone can recommend an electrician that will not charge an arm and a leg that could come to my place and have a look at it.

Location: Merrylands

Edited by aky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370475-auto-electrician/
Share on other sites

Checked the fuses in the boot, they look to be fine. I was thinking of maybe taking the fuses to supercheap and getting a new battery, then replace them all and see how it goes. But would still need an auto electrician in case that does not work.

Went to chk the fuses under the dashboard 2nit, thought to my self lets see if it turns on, surprise surprise it turned on and i took it for a little drive everything looked fine. Parked the car then tried to start it again about 30min later and it will not start, but it at least it makes clicking sounds now. So now i am thinking that it might be the battery that is dead, so will get a new battery tomorrow and will see what happens.

Bought a new battery, put in and it started without any issues. Took it for a drive all good, started the car after 30 min again and its still starting without any problems. So it looks like the battery was the problem after all, the other battery was all watery when i took it out so must have damaged it when trying to jump start it. So relived thought i might have done some serious damage to my car.

  • 4 weeks later...

Nerds lol

I had smoke come from my blinker switch today... Can't be good ay lol

Your relay/blinker might be on its way out. Smoke is never good. What is it? Unless its a fuse melting(which is very unlikely as they designed to blow, unless you put a higher rated 40a fuse in a 5a slot) it is most likely the wire casing melting. This isn't good. One second is nothing, but 3 - 5 seconds is enough to get rid of the plastic and leave bare wire exposed which can cause havoc. My mates ford laser smoked for about 3 seconds, he used the wrong fuse which didn't blow and allowed too much current through. The end result was a bundle of wire with minimal shielding literally melted together. He traded the car in the next day.

I'm pretty handy with electronics, if anyone needs help, I'm near Parramatta and can see what I can do. Ive fixed all issues both electrical and mechanical in all my cars and helped my brother rig up two of his cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...