Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I just had my battery replaced. I did it myself.

What i did:

I went to supercheap and bought a battery branded "Century" with slightly bigger size battery(the guys said this have more power and it have no problem as long as i can fit it in) because they don't have the one exactly same with the old one i using.

And i went back home then replace my battery, it was pretty quick. After that, yay! my engine started but then i realize i can't turn on my stereo system(radio) , there is no power on stereo. Also the batter light is ON on the dashboard.

I then went back to supercheap and get another guy to check what is wrong with it, he took out a Century battery meter(tester) and then test my car. When he ready he asked me to start my car and then the meter read 10.5V(around) and he told me it has to be minimum 13.X v . Rev the engine won't raise the V too. Then he told me that my "Alternator" is broken and need a replacement for that.

He said the Alternator won't charge the battery anymore that is why it stay at 10.5v and he asked me to drive back home asap and then find a mechanic to replace my Alternator.

Is he correct?

Just want to make sure before i go and buy an Alternator from wreckers.

Thanks a lot guys.

p.s Also my car wasn't so smooth on idle. It's like close to dead, probably it's because it only have 10.5v?

Edited by MrKenny

it sounds like an alternator dead (or wiring issue) to me. you are only seeing 10v because the alternator is not working proberly or not working at all, so you are just getting the battery's voltage.

it sounds like an alternator dead (or wiring issue) to me. you are only seeing 10v because the alternator is not working proberly or not working at all, so you are just getting the battery's voltage.

yayaya that's what the SuperCheap guy told me, and asked me to replace the Alternator. And he said it will cost a lot :( :(((

yeah it will cost a couple of hundred including remove and refit.

personally I'd recommend puting a reconditioned alternator in rather than just a second hand one.....you never know how long another second hand one will last before you need to replace it again.

yeah it will cost a couple of hundred including remove and refit.

personally I'd recommend puting a reconditioned alternator in rather than just a second hand one.....you never know how long another second hand one will last before you need to replace it again.

do you mean ask a auto electrician to rebuild the alternator inside for me? do you know roughly how much it will cost? and i have no idea how to remove it from my car and refit it :(

yeah it's not a tricky job really...but if not confident get someone to do it for you.

Either they can rebuild the one in your car, or they can swap it for a pre-rebuilt one. Not sure on an exact cost but it will be a couple of hundred dollars.

if its a fuse issue, it wont stay at 10V right? 10V is way too low correct??

alternator has an ignition supply to excite it. without that supply it wont charge and will continue below 10v until it wont run at all. not sure if the light will be on if the fuse is blown but its easy to check fuses so start there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...