Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey I'm looking at putting some 6 by 9s in the parcel tray of my car and after much searching I believe I've found how to move the rear seat out of the way. but what i was wondering is are the rear speakers are 6 by 9? or if they are 6's? and then what am I going to need to do if I want to change them to 6 by 9's?

Cheers in advance guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370595-r33-rear-speakers/
Share on other sites

6x9's wont fit unless you use a spacer type thing.

I only have 6x9s in mine because i had them. So got some black plastic spacers to lift them enough to fit.

Easiest option however is 6.5inches. They just dont have much nuts to them.

Right, so 6's is the general consensus? other than the installing problem im not to sure what the problems are with the 6x9s though? anyone then have some suggestions on the type of speakers to go for, is branding etc merely going to be personal preference

here is a few reasons they suck

1) Possible standing waves in the surround.

2) Non-even dispersion of sound wave across

radiating area

3) Standing waves IN the cone

4) Poorly controlled moving mass due to

unsymmetrical loading of suspension.

when you ask what brand 6 in to buy it depends on budget, tastes, brand loyalty and so much more , and if you have amp or factory deck etc to power them ?

and of course then if you don't install them right any speaker will sound horrible, or out of phase , no bass etc.

dont overlook some of the SAU sponsors or contributuors on here ?

yeah but what i meant was if the 2nd pic is a 6inch speaker - and he is saying that 6inches is the biggest that will fit the STANDARD speaker mounts - then why is there the piece of mdf? (sorry dont mean to argue such a small point, im doing my system soon - just wanting to confirm the sizes without having to cut/fabricate anything.. was told and have read they are 6.5 front and rear but possibly they arent?)

Im not sure what the issue with 6x9's is either.

When i had them in the parcel shelf of my ITR they sounded fantastic. Possibly because i did a good job installing them properly.

They sound like ass, and i knew they would, in the 33 because they dont fit. But it was a remedy to have sound, rather than broken speakers.

  • 2 weeks later...

Sweet went for the 6" got some nice clean crisp sound going on, next step bass =]

I'm running 6.5" component speakers in the front powered by an amp with the rears faded and found the sq and bass was good enough not to require 6x9's or a sub

I'm running 6.5" component speakers in the front powered by an amp with the rears faded and found the sq and bass was good enough not to require 6x9's or a sub

Whats "sq" sorry? but yer might give that a go first and then if i feel the need to add more i can go from there

  • 2 months later...

Ha well im semi afraid to say I went with the 6x9's but they have worked out well, got an 800w amp powering them and the 6's up front and they sound great and crisp also got a 10" sub powered by just a 222W amp at the moment which goes well but lacks the power at louder volume so upping the amp for that soon

Oh and also just heads up for others, I wired mine so that my front and rear speakers are playing off the front RCA port and the sub is off the Rear RCA port in the headunit. means I dont have a difference between front and rear sound at the moment, but means when I fade all the way to the rear I just get the sub, neat little trick :P will probably end up wiring it back so that front and back are in their respective ports and split the rear port for the sub also

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...