Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 6 used pistons that i want to use replace my damaged set but the grading doesnt matchup on one piston....My cylinder #3 had a grade 1 piston and the used set i got no grade 1's. HELP

can i just simply drop in the grade 2 piston where the grade 1 was..or do i have to find a used grade 1 piston?

Edited by JamSkyRB20
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370676-piston-grades-explanation/
Share on other sites

Don't worry about the grades, they were for brand new pistons in a brand new bore.

If you are putting used pistons into a used block, the only way to do it is to hone the block, clean the pistons sure thoroughly, and then measure each in multiple places (especially the bore because it can become oval instead of round over time). Then drop the pistons in as the best match you can regardless of original grade.

Even then, the clearances may still be too large, that is why people commonly bore out 0.5mm when rebuilding.

As above.

IMHO it would be cheaper and easier to buy another working RB20. If not, atleast buy some oversized slugs (non forged wont cost much) so you get the thing right (as mentioned above).

GL

IMHO it would be cheaper and easier to buy another working RB20.

As much as I agree about not spending money on 20s, I wish people would stop recommending "drop in a working 20". The cars are almost 20 years old now, and for the past 8 years every single r32 has only had 100,000Kms on it.

A freshen up with new bearings, rings and a hone at a minimum will save a wrecker motor getting tired fast.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...