Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

just pick up my R34GTR and I have been told it has some "Nismo Sport Clutch Kit" dont even know what part no is ??? I believe it has been change to single flywheel !!

now I am hearing this rattle noise when the car on idle, when I clutch in it goes away !! I have been told by my mechanic its normal becuase factory Nissan runs a dual mass fly wheel !! he said it happens when you change to flywheel !!

this might sounds ok to alot of ppl but this is anoying me to the hell !! any way we can get rid of this noise beside going back to dual mass flywheel ??

thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370736-anoying-r34gtr-rattle/
Share on other sites

The getrag's all rattle in neutral. Twin plate clutchs rattle only happens when your foot has the clutch pedal to the floor. When the clutch is engaged your listening to the gearbox.

The dual mass is supposed to quieten it a little, but it doesnt. Get a louder exhaust or a bigger stereo. Putting your foot on and off the clutch a few times and you can get the sound to change and quieten sometimes...

had a dual mass in my lexus but then changed to single mass and letting clutch out there are squeaky sounds

and just recently i have the same problem as you, noisy rattly sound in neutral, does yours increase as revs increase?

i figured mine was the clutch bearing, annoying and makes you self conscious that people think your car is shit when you pull up but harmless really ahah

The getrag's all rattle in neutral.

Is the gearbox itself noisy, or do you mean that the dual mass flywheel rattles when it gets old?

The dual mass is supposed to quieten it a little, but it doesnt.

What's the theory behind that? I would have thought a dual mass could only make noise as it gets old, not help suppress noise. Especially considering its connected to the engine not the gearbox.

OP - I cant see how non-dual mass, non-multi plate clutch would be noisy. I mean, what can rattle?

I'm looking for edumacation plz

As much as we would like our flywheels to remain flat all the time, in reality they never are. The moment you start to drive the car, friction generates heat hot spots that in turn cause iregular expansion of the material. This warps the surface of the flywheel and causes driveline shuddering in its wost cases. It is especialy noticable if you try and drive like a grandma with a 3 or 4 puck ceramic clutch disc and a bad ass heavy clutch plate.

Conventional clutch setups have a flywheel directly bolt to the crankshaft. The clutch pressure plate is also hard bolted to the flywheel. And the clutch friction disc is in between the two, with its drive spline slipped over the input shaft on the gearbox. This allows for no movement anywhere in the driveline to dampen the opertation and engagement of the clutch.

A dual mass flywheel is like a mix of a flywheel and a flex plate from an auto setup. The friction surface of the flywheel is rivetted to a mounting plate that is bolted to the crankshaft. This allows the flywheel to move a little and soften the engagement of the clutch as it engages. The goal being to make the car more drivable.

This is a dual mass. See the 12 rivets in the pic:

676.jpg

This is conventional

nengun-130966-00-nismo-lightweight_flywheel_rb20rb25rb26.jpg

Every R34 Gtr ive seen all have the getrag rattle at idle and in neutral. No its not age/wear related, having seen a standard vspec with < 30,000 genuine km and it still rattled.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...