Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to be the one to bring this up for probably close to the gazillionth time.

But before you mention it, yes I know there's a search function and yes, Google is my friend, etc, etc.

But anyway, I've been searching through forums and the like for a week or so and a lot of threads regarding this swap are from quite a while back. '07ish.

Also the reason it's in the WA section is due to possible price differences as compared to other states due to Perth being in the middle of Whoop Whoop.

(so delete, close or move if absolutely necessary, but If my there's a recent thread or something I've not found please let me know)

I was just wondering, due to the fact that none of the sites really tell you, how much your looking to pay for a RB25DET half-cut these days in WA? (I'm assuming there'd be some form of price depreciation)

Whereabouts in Perth is capable/trustworthy of getting these in in good nick, low km's and at a decent price?

And any other associated costs? (installation, possible tuning, wiring, etc.)

(probably worth noting, is my pathetic mechanical knowledge, I reckon without help I'd be in struggletown getting the engine out by myself)

A ballpark figure for each of these (based on recent experience, inside knowledge, etc.) would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370801-rb25-into-an-r32/
Share on other sites

my cousins son was looking at getting a half cut S14 SR20DET at jap performance place in ossie park to install in his NA auto S13, they quoted $3000 for the half cut and $2500 to install, i know that its not a 25DET but gives you an idea of what your up for, remember japan is not pumping out any new 25s anymore and demand is quite high

Is there like an FAQ thread about this conversion (not a tutorial, I've read about a million of 'em) someone could point me in the direction of?

I'm trying to find out what parts are interchangeable from the 20 to the 25. (manifolds, cams, etc.)

To see whether I'll need the half-cut or if just an engine, g/box and loom will cut it.

Cheers.

Edit: Also is there any significant difference in power or ease of installation between the S1 and S2 RB25's?

Edited by are bee's

Mechanically, there is no difference between a series 1 and 2 R33 era RB25.

Things like ECU, coilpacks, TPS are different (and thus the harness).

RB20 & RB25 exhaust manifolds are the same.

RB20 and RB25s1 coils and igniter are the same (s2 went to igniters on the coils), RB20 and RB25s1 AFM is also the same.

Use the P/S and A/C that are already in the car, should all bolt up to the block fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...