Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all up for sale we have a complete set of Pedders Sports Ryder Extreme X coilovers.

These came off an R33 drag car, these are awesome coilovers, has awesome adjustability & great spring rate to suit your needs. Great for the track as it is more on the firm side.

Asking price $1000 (negotiable)

Item is located in St albans, 20mins from the Melbourne CBD.

For any questions I can be contacted on 0431 068 447

Thanks.

Ron

.

Hi mate they are not camber adjustable. If you want some pics of the shocks give me your number and I'll send them through as I dont have the net at home and I can't post any pics up.

Cheers!

Hey mate,

What do these retail for? They seem like a decent looking coilover. You said they were non-camber adjustable, that's not stopping me from putting them on my car if my car is already fitted with camber adjustment gear is it?

Hey mate,

What do these retail for? They seem like a decent looking coilover. You said they were non-camber adjustable, that's not stopping me from putting them on my car if my car is already fitted with camber adjustment gear is it?

Hey buddy,

These retail for around $2000+ when new. They are not camber adjustable but if you have your adjustable camber arms then you wont have a problem at all!

If you are interested give me a call or txt!

Cheers mate!

how's the spring rates like? i would assume that they'll be too stiff for the street?

I have these coil overs on my 33 and they ride real nice. Not too stiff at all

Thanks skins, as he said these are quality shocks & the ride is real comfortable. Bump !

Will take reasonable offers so come on guys ! :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Got these on my 33 awesome coilovers, they are firm but still handle potholes reasonably well. Definately more performance orientated than luxury if that makes sense.

Would definitely reccomend them.

GL with sale

Edited by SLY-33R

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
×
×
  • Create New...