Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

Just got my r34 impul side skirts delivered.

I tried pre-ftting with my mate, and we didn't get a long way - We played around with it for about an hour and we couldn't figure out what was going on. Had the car jacked and felt like all underneath was all out of wack.

When installing these, do I need to remove the original factory side skirt? It's about 40cm long right near the rear wheel. I felt like it was kind of in the way. Do I leave this on?

Does anyone have any photos of the impul skirts NOT on the car? I would really appreciate any photos provided of their impul skirts on their own.

When it comes down to it - I really need some fitment advice/tips/help!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371453-r34-impul-side-skirts/
Share on other sites

I had the sides off originally and again, didn't do too well.

I thought I could of left it on because of your photos charles. I can see you have your original factory one on still under your new sides.

I'm pretty sure this copy came from monkey warehouse (Because of the return address).

If anyone can supply some close up photos of your impul sides (With your door open) that would be highly appreciated.

Edited by wilorichie

I got Impul sides mate, if you are interested you are more than welcome to come check it out.. They are a bit shabby and plan to replace them with new ones but you're more than welcome to see how they were attached.

I had the sides off originally and again, didn't do too well.

I thought I could of left it on because of your photos charles. I can see you have your original factory one on still under your new sides.

I'm pretty sure this copy came from monkey warehouse (Because of the return address).

If anyone can supply some close up photos of your impul sides (With your door open) that would be highly appreciated.

Mine is a different sideskirt to yours though lol, and yes, my Nismo skirts just overlapped my factory skirts, but I know that there are some skirts out there that requires you to take off the factory skirts.

I PM'd you back Richie.. Forgot I changed them to bommex when I bought the car.. the impul got damaged.. so I decided to change.. Tottal had a mind blank.. Sorry

Maybe ask in QLD section as i'm sure a few others will have impul they will let you look at..

There is a good reason why there are heaps ;)

Because they are good!

Had mine fitter dori... It fit with the original skirt in tact. The guys that fitted it though didn't line up the side curves properly though... They fitted it really tightly but they had it slightly wrong lol...

Looks really good though, so doesn't line up like most other impuls... But it looks really good how it is lined up (looks like it is supposed to be like that... but its not lol).

Unpainted - Will be painting them myself now on Sunday. Which really sucks because I'm meeting up with sonnyQ (Clint) on Saturday for our tinting. My car is going to look like a bomb with those dodgey unpainted sides!! :(

I finished spraying the sides the other day, so grabbed the camera and took a few photos for those that where interested.

It is a bit of a story - I mentioned in another thread, that the body shop which fitted these didn't fit them like normal impul skirts. They put screws in the sides of the skirts into the side of the car, I was a bit upset.

I took the job home and wanted to finish it from there.

I left the screws in (holes already in the car) and filled up a little hole they left from the way they installed it.

post-50568-0-15028200-1311920411_thumb.jpg

Once it was fairly smooth, primed it as such

post-50568-0-61121500-1311920417_thumb.jpg

post-50568-0-98726800-1311920422_thumb.jpg

I had a booking with Clint (SonnyQ) for tinting and needed to drive the car - So had asked my misses to help me tape up the car again - Makes life much easier :D

post-50568-0-13885600-1311920431_thumb.jpg

Car is finally ready for painting

post-50568-0-02878800-1311920437_thumb.jpg

I wish I took some photos doing the coats of colour + clear but didnt :( Only have the finished result:

post-50568-0-45230000-1311920441_thumb.jpg

post-50568-0-17185300-1311920453_thumb.jpg

  • 3 months later...

Hey Mate

Ask Shane from PSI Parts. He will be able to sort them out for you.

[email protected] or [email protected]

I paid less for my side skirts for a mokey warehouse copy. They weren't to easy to install (I didn't do it either, paid some body repairs to do it and they said it was bloody hard). They are all fitted etc now, but if I was to do it again, I would purchase the skirts from Shane @ PSI parts. I purchased my rear bumper from him.

I think it was around $400-$450 for the bar delivered (or maybe plus delivery). The extra $100 to PSI parts for the quality fitting part is definitely worth it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...