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Hey mate, nice car, those videos make me moist. I'm about to put a Neo in my car and my spec sheet is exactly the same as yours haha. Exactly what highflow do you have?

Edited by iruvyouskyrine
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Looks the goods, but expensive at $1955 if you were doing it again would you keep this turbo or what other options would you look at? And you wouldn't happen to have the part number for the manual spigot bush, my motor as also auto so i'm guessing i will need one too?

I got it free with the car, personally if I did it again I would buy a hypergear, not BB but performs slightly better and only ~$1k A genuine garret would be the best but I want stealth so I can pass a regency inspection without having to change a single part.

Sorry no idea about the part number, just call up nissan they will know what you are talking about.

Edited by Rolls
  • 4 months later...

Hey Rolls,

Been reading your thread and was just wondering how you got passed the crankshaft pulley being a different size to the r33 one.

You still using the rb20 acillaries?

Car is awesome btw

Josh.

Edited by Saroon

Hey Rolls,

Been reading your thread and was just wondering how you got passed the crankshaft pulley being a different size to the r33 one.

You still using the rb20 acillaries?

Car is awesome btw

Josh.

Using rb20 ancilleries and got different sized belts as I kept the r34 crankshaft pulley. Basically as long as you use R32 or R33 ancilleries all that needs to change is getting new belts, at least that is what I think I did as I remember buying new belts.

Edited by Rolls
  • 3 weeks later...

Blew up 3rd gear finally so I bought a 2nd hand box off a member on here that said it wasn't noisy and 2nd syncro was a bit crunchy on high speed changes.

Put it in and the input shaft bearing whines so loud it sounds like a gilmer drive and 2nd syncro is so bad you have to double declutch into neutral to go from 3rd back to 2nd.

Pretty pissed, I know you risk it with 2nd hand boxes but when people say it is fine and it isn't, that really shits me.

Not really sure what to do now, whether to pull it apart and put a new input shaft bearing and use the syncro from my old box, or look for another 2nd hand box. Both are risky.

Sigh.

  • 2 months later...

Blew up 3rd gear finally so I bought a 2nd hand box off a member on here that said it wasn't noisy and 2nd syncro was a bit crunchy on high speed changes.

Put it in and the input shaft bearing whines so loud it sounds like a gilmer drive and 2nd syncro is so bad you have to double declutch into neutral to go from 3rd back to 2nd.

Pretty pissed, I know you risk it with 2nd hand boxes but when people say it is fine and it isn't, that really shits me.

Not really sure what to do now, whether to pull it apart and put a new input shaft bearing and use the syncro from my old box, or look for another 2nd hand box. Both are risky.

Sigh.

Save yourself the pain and just buy another 2nd handie.... pulling gearboxes apart sucks a big bad of d+=ks.

Rolls you car makes similar power and torque to mine... Going another RB20 box isn't going to last; you may have to bite the bullet and get a RB25 box.

My RB20 box lasted 21 years of abuse (and 5 years at around 240rwkw) until I was overcome with a quest for more torque. One day on the dyno with my current setup, had it whining like crazy and in need of replacement. 250rwkw seems to be all they can handle.

I don't do drift or burnouts so my driving style is probably fairly mild, I don't think it would stand up to track abuse day in day out. It does however handle fast shifts and has been almost 4 years with that power behind it and still has plenty of meat and grab on it, it is starting to shudder a little when stone cold in winter but is great the rest of the year.

Rolls you car makes similar power and torque to mine... Going another RB20 box isn't going to last; you may have to bite the bullet and get a RB25 box.

My RB20 box lasted 21 years of abuse (and 5 years at around 240rwkw) until I was overcome with a quest for more torque. One day on the dyno with my current setup, had it whining like crazy and in need of replacement. 250rwkw seems to be all they can handle.

If I did any track work I'd agree with you, right now I'm just looking for the easy solution, don't think I'll keep the car long enough to warrant the $2k investment in putting a 25 box in.
Edited by Rolls
  • 1 month later...

I've got new ones coming and was goin to flow test them just for peice of mind, but as they do come with a flow sheet not sure why they would lie ether.

How are you finding yours? My are quite poppy on low load which I think is due to an average spray pattern, fuel economy is great though and power is fine.

  • 10 months later...

Put car up for sale a few weeks ago then it got written off :(((

10530662_10152157638980764_8147808908768

10468684_10152157638970764_7730849713257

The impact snapped my f**king seat in half! was a big hit, was lying down for the head on which saved me from hitting my head on the steering wheel.

Selling the boost controller if anyone is interested (eboost street)

Yeah even the roof bent, both doors were about 5cm away from closing lol, tail shaft snapped and the exhaust ripped off the end of the turbo, think they whole car is 5cm shorter after the impact.

Got $10,500 from insurance so shopping for an XR6T now, found a few around $12k and some modded ones with 400kw around $16k, going to be fun times!

Edited by Rolls
  • 5 months later...

awesome read up man such a shame it got hit!! feel for you after so much effort to make it into the car it was..

if possible rolls id love to pick your brain loom wise..

im about to tackle a neo conversion and would love to keep my rb20 g4link computer and wire in the vct..

im electrician by trade so the actual chopping and soldering etc doesnt worry me at all i just dont know what ill have to change, wire etc haha

thanks for any help in advance :)

It was a blessing in disguise, the xr6t I have now makes 340rwkw with peak torque at 3k and peak power not much after 4k until 6k. Torque monster, so much nicer to drive as well.

To keep the ECU you really need to keep most the sensors,I used RB25DET series 1 intake and everything so it was a bit easier as I only bought a long motor, not one with loom and everything else.

Either way CAS has to be re-wired back to front, eg

4-1

3-2

2-3

1-4

I used knock sensors from an rb25det series 1 though the neo ones might be compatible though, I used the neo coil packs and simply cut the rb20 igniter off, eg wire all the inputs to the igniter direct to the coils. I don't have a drawing as it is so simple to figure out once you look at the wiring.

Z32 AFM (you'll max the rb20 one so fast it isn't funny).

my mate did it with all the neo running gear and only changed the cas wiring, removed igniter for coils and replaced TPS, everything else just worked I'm pretty sure. I'll msg him and double check for you.

edit: My mate used full neo motor with rb20 loom said all he did is use all series 1 rb25det TPS, deleted the traction control from the TB, wire cas back to front and he wired the VCT to have power permanently (not optimal but better than running without it).

Most of the plugs from the rb20 loom will plug into the neo sensors, you might need to swap the injector plugs I think that is all.

I have the eboost street for sale that I used if you want it, it needs a new loom which is about $80 so will sell the unit for cheap.

It is really easy to do, only took us a few hours to do the electrical work and it started even with the rb20 tune (though didn't drive).

Edited by Rolls

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