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Rolls's R32 In The Processing Of Fitting A Neo 25!


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Picked this up for $11.5k after selling my old red coupe for $9k, was a f**king awesome upgrade for only $2.5k

Apparently has only 70,000 on the clock, personally I think it is a load of crap. However the paint and interior is mint and the engine is only 2200kms old.

Modifications:

Previously had a Freshly built forged RB25DET with Arias forged pistons, Arp head studs etc, now has a neo RB25DETGcG highflow turbo

Original Hybrid GT spec intercooler (Not a copy)

Apexi Super induction POD filter

Turbo Timer

Magna flow fuel pressure reg

full 3 inch turbo back exhaust system with CES dump-pipe and Hi-flow cat, 5' tip. Very quiet, almost as quiet as a stock system.

Wolf 3d ECU

GTR injectors flowed and tested sitting in an after market fuel rail to suit rb25

Splitfire coilpacks

Wallbro 500hp fuel pump

Catch can

Pager Alarm

Aftermarket springs (unknown brand) and possibly stock shocks. Handles surprisingly well and not bouncy.

17x9 and 17x8 avs model 5's recently sprayed in black.

New alternator

New battery

New waterpump

Interior

Clarion 4x50 watt headunit

6' splits in the front

6' speakers in the rear

2x JL audio subs in custom boot install

Was making 240rwkw with the previous motor, hoping for 240-250 with the neo. Full boost around 3000rpm, and it just has so much torque you don't need to rev it, however if you do once it hits 5k it just takes off like a rocket. 1st gear is pretty much useless as it is just smashes the 7.5k limiter before you can change gear. Great fun cheesy.gif

Here are some pictures of it from when the previous owner had it, looks very similar to this now just with some dished silver rims instead.

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Thats one neat r32, are you going to keep it a virgin? or is this turning into a basher? (they 'ALL' eventually turn into this :D )

Edited by phat_man
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yey it was approved!

I am going to copy some of the key posts from the R31 club forums, basically lots has happened since the first post, can read about it here before I start copying some of it over if you want.

http://motamota.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=136201.new#new

but no, neg to basher, it will be a clean street car.

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Just did a road tune with Pete from the Nistune guys last night, very friendly knowledgeable guy, was great to chat to!

It was a hot night around 31c which was good as that is probably the hottest weather I am going to push the car hard in, with his big knock ears found it getting a bit out of control around peak torque (5500rpm) in 3rd gear runs so pulled around 2-3degrees around that part of the map, car pulls identically but he said there was nothing he could hear afterwards, should be even better in the colder weather. On boost was around 11:1 so now that I can be confident if it doesn't knock at full load on 18psi in 30c then it shouldn't knock ever so I'm going to head out to mallala soon.

Found out my O2 sensor is dead so it was idling around 17:1 and around 15:1 on cruise at times, but would fluctuate down to 11:1 due to lack of O2 feedback so hopefully that will fix my poppy idle (too lean) and bad fuel economy (too rich), will put it on the dyno to see if it throws out the map once it is functioning.

Overall it looks like shaun from boostworx did a pretty good job, was originally tuned in cold weather and Pete reckons the knock he heard would have been impossible to detect on the dyno, due to different temp and loads. Not sure if the O2 was functioning when it was originally tuned, would have hoped that shaun would have picked that up but it is entirely possible it has died since then.

Still have a weird issue where in semi cold weather (car been sitting for 8 hours, any less or more and it doesn't do it) and it sits on 5 degrees timing until it warms up, makes it quite difficult to drive, being as there is about 8 correction maps it could be jumping to we weren't able to pinpoint that problem but such is tuning!

Highly recommend people get a road tune done after they've got their base map under control especially with someone sitting next to you who knows their stuff, even if they find the map is perfect it just leaves you with so much more confidence that the car is running safely and properly.

Thanks Status for the suggestion!

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8/12/10 A creek runs under our carpark at work and with the massive downpour this afternoon it burst a huge 3m hole in the ground and flooded the carpark and surrounding offices and buildings, lots and lots of damage done, few cars were completely ruined and no longer start, the sports stadium was filled completely with water. We are on a bloody hill as well, I couldn't even understand how the water managed to pool there, there was just so much that it couldn't drain down the side streets fast enough.

Anyway my car was under about 40cm of water, seals in the doors stopped it coming in but it must have leaked through a few holes in the floor. Exhaust was completely filled as well.

Muffler no longer does any muffling as the water must have collapsed the baffles or something but it isn't too bad, sounds nicer imo just loud, I jacked it up on a slope and got most of it out then just drove it for an hour to boil the rest out, no more steam but the muffler is still loud, is it likely its never going to quiten down again?

Spent all last night and this morning stripping the entire interior, all it has now is a front seat, even had to take the stupid centre console out to get the carpet out, even then I had to cut it once as I couldn't be f**ked removing the entire dash to get the stereo frame out.

Feels like a race car with no interior, found a few small bits of rust but Ive soaked all the liquid up and vacuumed all the mud out, hopefully the carpet dries and doesn't smell, not looking forward to putting it all back together.

Some photos of the damage

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13/12/10

Put all the interior back in yesterday, sanded back the two tiny spots of surface rust and put some rust kill on it, wd40'd anything else around it. Carpets got a huge workover and look brand new now, no smell either.

Feels good to have an interior again, was sick of it sounding like a race car with all the noises I could hear. Muffler is back to 95% of what it was before the flood as well which is good news, sounded awesome but was just too loud. All the cables and wires seem fine with zero rust found, no electrical problems either. Will keep an eye out for people wrecking r32s and grab a spare loom in case 6 months down the track it dies the green death though.

All in all it didn't turn out too bad at all, 3 people at work had their cars written off by insurance, one was a brand new commodore that had less water than mine, sucks to be them. A few people didn't do shit and now their cars smell like absolute death and are having electrical issues. Oh well, not my problem.

Edited by Rolls
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and she is dead : (

http://www.skylinesa...60#entry5703523

197107_10150156047021834_562161833_8052541_6390321_n.jpg

7.5k in 2nd and the cam snapped, heard a noise at peak torque on high boost thinking it was pinging, took it to the dyno at boostworx to diagnose and shaun thought it was the cas and recommended i bring it back for a proper look. 2 days later the exhaust cam shaft snapped into 3 pieces, did not see that coming, thought it was at worst a noisy cas bearing.

Edited by Rolls
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5/5/11

We put another cam in about a month ago and the motor would still only run on 4 cylinders with some horrible rattles, took the head off and suprisingly all the pisons and valves were fine, blown rings? stuck lifters? no idea. Decided to rip the whole thing out as I don't have any confidence in the build, massive piston bore clearance (bad piston slap) and lots of loose bolts, don't trust it to last and don't want to waste money trying to fix it. Will pull it apart and sell off all the bits. Sabaddin built motor with $5.5k in receipts as well from the previous owner.

Found a neo rb25 out of an R34 that was torched, picking it up in a week or so and will be replacing the forged mess. Can't wait to get it all running again, miss the car so much.

Motor is $1900 which isn't cheap but I want to do it once and do it properly, neos shit all over r33 rb25s, rb26 rods, basically an rb26 head with solid lifters, better cams and much newer engine. Hoping to get another 10-15kw once tuned with a fatter midrange due to the better motor design.

Reason it has taken so long to get a motor is I fixed up my housemates shit box magna so I had a car to drive, cost about $600 to fix up, transmission blew up in the driveway a few weeks later, ended up buying a 93 barina for $1k but there goes all my savings. Clocked up some extra hours this month and made $3300 after tax for 4 days a week work. $1900 towards the motor and $150 a week to live off after rent, think it is quite achievable.

Edited by Rolls
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12/6/11 20110612150525456.jpg

Fun times, in the process of bolting all my shit onto the neo, was an auto motor so need a new manual spiggot bush which I will get on tuesday.

Edited by Rolls
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30/6/11 Slowly getting all the shit on, rewired the CAS plug, got all the loom hooked up. Found out the neo crankshaft pulley is bigger for some reason so have to get a new belt before putting all the asscessories on, also my fuel hose is too short.

Down to $40 left until monday when I get paid thanks to blowing 60% of the months wage on the engine lol, guess it will have to wait until next week.

Also lost my size 13 spanner which I need to undo the dump pipe. Yeah I know, what the f**k uses a size 13?

Oh I also broke my super small screwdriver decrimping my knock sensor plug, so need probably another $50 worth of stuff to get it going.

Fun times! Technically it is progress though.

Edited by Rolls
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14/7/11Trailered the car to boostworx for final touches as it won't start (pump won't prime) due to an electrical problem, also I lost some of the bell housing bolts and would like a pro to check all my work over and make sure it is 100%

Once they fix up the list of things I gave them to do I'll be getting pete from Nistune to tune it, hoping to have it back end of next week or the week after. It is getting really close to running, I'm excited cheesy.gif

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TODAY!!

Car is all running sweet, boostworx are just fixing up a few leaking coolant hose clamps, replacing the AC bearing as its noisy as f**k and fixing up a few other basic things which I didn't have time to do, main one was the neo head has studs on each far side of the intake manifold where as the r33 head takes bolts the whole way, I didn't realise this when swapping the intake manifolds and was left with a stud on each side where I couldn't put a nut on as the stud stuck out so far, boostworx welded a socket onto the stud (has a hex end) and pulled them out far enough to get some thread to put a nut on.

Said the car runs fine, no funny noises and has good oil pressure, fantastic news! they are going to run it up on the dyno to make sure it is running sweet (no det or high afrs) and then I will get pete from nistune to give a touch up tune, hoping to make a bit over the 236rwkw it made before, maybe a 5-10kw increase in the mid end, time will tell. Shaun from boostworx is perfectly capable of tuning it just want to get a hands on approach to tuning with pete where I can sit in the car and learn something along the way as I would like to be able to tune myself in the future.

Anyway will post a video up when I have her back in my hands :D

Edited by Rolls
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They are taking their sweet ass time installing the new idler bearing and putting it on the dyno to check AFRs, hopefully will have it done tomorrow, if not I'm off to moomba for a week in the gas fields and they are going to have to have it sitting around there for ages.

Really itching to drive it before I leave!

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sigh finally got on the dyno and the broken knock sensor loom I supplied they must not have fixed properly, result is misfire as soon as it gets on boost.

ffs it is just a single pin that needed to be soldered, should have done it myself, guess it'll have to be monday now while they source a replacement

Edited by Rolls
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More troubles with the car, knock loom fixed, made 210kw on 11psi when he wound it up to 19psi all sorts of funny noises started happening.

Ended up finding 5!! boost leaks, AAC vac line, AAC gasket, actuator vac line, intercooler silicon joiner and something else that I forgot.

Then once that was solved the intake pipe started sucking shut so he is making up a metal intake pipe with bov and catch can return line and painting it black for stealth. Should be done tomorrow hopefully!

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Got the car back... but it has a boost leak. Became apparent after about 5 minutes of driving, pretty sure it is a boost leak anyway, really strange trumpet, belt rubbing vibraty noise. Never heard anything like it, it only occurs around peak torque as well but is very different from detonation, so back it goes tomorrow morning, oh well took it for a nice hour long drive and just didn't load it up at all in case it was an issue effecting fuel.

I think what is happening on peak torque the engine is rocking enough to make one of the intercooler pipes get the smallest leak.

Either way was fantastic to drive it again, I forgot how well skylines handled compared to 1.3L barinas Lol

Edited by Rolls
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  • 1 month later...

Turns out it isn't a boost leak, it is the intercooler pipe vibrating and causing a weird resonance that sounds like a trumpet. Getting some new mounts made up and replacing the joiners as they have gotten a bit soft.

Should get the car back on Tuesday. Getting jaustech to do the work as boostworx are simply too busy to get stuff done in a reasonable time frame.

Dropped the car off Thursday afternoon, had a call with the problem and the fix Friday arvo, pretty happy with that. Surprised boostworx couldn't find the issue.

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