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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys

Well I thought I would update you all with my car and see if anyone could help me with my problem.

I've changed my coil packs to yellow jackets, all miss firing is gone and runs heaps smoother.

Fixed the exhaust leak, it was missing 2 nuts from the turbo to manifold flange hmmm.

Changed the oil and filter and put in Motul full synthetic 8100 xcess and dayummm I thought meh oil is oil, but the car just idles alot smoother and goes through the rev range smoother as well, the previous owner had put shell helix magnatec or something like that.

The o2 sensor has been changed, cleaned the air flow meter and ive got a fmic now as well.

And my fuel consumption went down again, im only getting 180-200kms a tank of v-power, could it be because of my spark plugs? ive got irediums gapped to 1.1mm should I regap them to 0.8 or should I go and get coppers and gap them to 0.8? by the way I'm running 12psi and the turbo and everything is still holding up really good "knocks on wood" so what do you guys think about the fuel consumption? what could be the cause?

Also I am just doing short trips but that shouldnt really kill the fuel consumption that bad should it? please let me know asap.

And thank you very much for any help in advance, thanks.

Nah they didnt, thats another thing i forgot to mention, could that be related to my brakes? because my breaks make a creeking kind of noise when im stopped, I've been told that I would need a caliper rebuild kit? I'm still trying to find a rebuild kit does anyone know where I could get them from? thanks.

  • 2 weeks later...

How are you with a soldering iron???

I had that problem and had to open my Afm and re solder my joins in there.

You just cut the silastic off the cover of it, pull the Afm out so you just got the circuitry then re solder the cracked "dry" joins. Quick easy cheap check, can't hurt. There's a Diy on here to do it.

Nissans soldering is pretty aweful. Seeing as I work on locomotives with solder joins buried in water and dirt and shit and theyll never dry up and break off.

And trust me these joins are older then your skyline :P some of them Older then me!

Hey man yeah I'm pretty good with a soldering iron, wouldn't the cars idle be funny and hunting if it was the afm? also I'm getting error code 17, what is that? thanks for your help man, thanks.

Umm for me it'd be find then te whole car would jerk a bit then be fine.

Have you ever had that?? It could be an intermitant fault perhaps? Idk.

Sometimes it wouldn't jerk it'd just have the lights on so I thought id just mention it.

Hey man car never jerks or anything, knock on wood she runs really sweet and smooth and idles too, about my brake creeking noise, i did a full break/clutch fluid change and bled the brakes and silicone sprayed abit on all of the rubbers and the creeking has now stopped, but the stupid tcs and slip light are still on grrrrrrr, what could be the problem, i keep on getting error code 17 but i cant find that code anywhere on the forum, any help would be greatly appreciated.

ok so I have resoldered all of the joints in the afm reset the computer turned the car off the tcs and slip light were off for about 5 seconds if that and they came back on again, any other recommendations? could it possibly be the turbo timer? i have read somewhere on this forum but I cant remember exactly someones turbo timer caused some light to come up, Ill try just disconnecting the harness and see how it goes, thanks.

Hard man I had the biggest smile on my face and then threw my phone outta the window haha lol, ok well I just tried the turbo timer and nothing.

Checked the codes im still getting code 17 i reset the codes and then it came back on as soon as i turned the car on.

If I take it to a Nissan Dealer would they be able to find out exactly what it is with their consult if they tap straight into the tcs computer? coz I dont have the full consult program and can only get the code.

I bought the service manual on cd if anyone wants a copy let me know and ill try figure out how to upload it to rapid share or something like that.

On the manual code 17 is

ABS-TCS CONTROL UNIT CIRCUIT

DEFENITON: THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT DETECTS MALFUNCTION IN THE SYSTEM. (OPEN THROTTLE SENSOR HARNESS, ETC.) - TCS-ABS CONTROL UNIT DETECTS MALFUNCTION.

I also had code 16 pop up a couple times

CODE 16 - MOTOR THROTTLE SWITCH SIGNAL CIRCUIT [RB25DET] ABNORMAL CORRELATION IS DETECTED BETWEEN INPUT VOLTAGES FROM THE THROTTLE MOTOR SENSOR AND FROM THE MOTOR THROTTLE SWITCH FOR PREDETERMINED TIME.

So where do I start looking now?

Thanks for everyones help in advance.

TPS voltage on the consult shows 0.4 when on idle and it goes up when you accelerate, as for the TCS do I just find a pinout on the throttle body for it? on the plug for the butterfly that would close the throttle? thanks for your help dude.

You have so many posts I can't keep track of what problems you have or where you are at, makes replying impossible but I'll give it a shot.

Put the stock BOV back on, buy one off the forums, you have to have this or the car won't run right.

You have an air leak somewhere, you said your vac is -6mmHg, this is wrong should be -15 ish. You have a leak somewhere in the intake system, find it and fix it, best way is via pressure testing the system, most workshops should have something you can do this with.

Get the new coils, it sounds like you have the typical rich/bad spark misfire.

200kms per tank is not just the O2 sensor, with just that dead you should get at least 300, unless of course all you do is rev out 4th on the free way all day. From the consult sounds like the O2 is dead anyway, so replace that, also check the coolant temp sensor and the thermostat, these could also cause your poor fuel economy.

Turn the eboost off until you fix your issues, you don't need to add more variables in.

Once you have fixed all these things let us know.

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