Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Al's Race Glides Just finished my gearbox off for my gtr which will be hitting the strip in the next few weeks. Car has made over 1000rwhp on a run in tune up and is now equipt with a 4WD T400 that has run 6.8 at 207mph in a rwd chassis car.

These boxes will be available to the public in the next few weeks. Gearbox packages will range from 800hp up to the 2000+HP application.

These are streetable gearboxes as i wish to have mine making around the 1300awhp all day every day on E85. Drive to the track and drive home.

2mmvn90.jpg

PM me if you're keen

Was a shit fight to get an auto to hold power but looks like it has finally been done.

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?p=2795161#post2795161

Julian

Edited by kil-351

car was tuned with the manual box in it as the auto wasnt ready, hence the dyno graph.. was on f**k all boost but at auto salon this year we will be chasing whatever the turbo will turn to plus a healthy shot of gas. Try and get 60+ pounds out of it before we get serious at the drag strip.

Thats awesome, sounds promising - when are you going for a full power tune? Will be interesting to hear how the block holds that.

Im going to put the auto box in it asap then drive it on the street the way it is for a few weeks before i turn it up. The block may be an issue as im still running water but i didnt break my single camer on 52 pounds so i think with maatouks tune up it should hold over 50 pounds before i spray it. Race it for a bit then try and feed the next 10 - 15psi

Is that a modified stock inlet I see, Julian? ;)

What is the price range for an Al's T400 GTR box?

yea stock inlet for now.. not having any problems with it. the box complete bolted in with neal chance converter, tranny cooler, shifter, tail shaft, all adaptors, output shaft etc etc is around 20k. Maybe a bit under

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...