Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The RE001's were 'better' than the 595SS in my opinion. BUT, keep in mind the rather large price difference. For what the 595SS's are, I would get them again. I don't think the 595SS is really that far behind the RE001's, maybe you should consider the 595EVO (which is one between SS and RSR) or even the RSR's. I think if you get the SS expecting them to be the same or better than the RE001 you will be dissapointed, but if you get the SS looking at the price gap between the SS and the RE001, you will be pleased. If that makes sense. haha.

I wouldn't buy locally if you want a good tyres at a reasonable price .buy ad08s or dunlop speed stars for street tyres with grip. You can't expect a cheap tyre with performance to last ages. I run ku36 up front and federal RSR down back. Perfect combo for street Tyres that are good on track. If I wanted great on track, then obviously another set of wheels and semis would be ideal

I think unless you are competing (phillcom rally, etc) or have a large disposable income, dont bother with an amazing rim/tyre combo. Go a RE001, 595SS or KU36 and work on other small adjustments that will see your times drop.

but whats the point of spending $2000 on a set of real semis to cut a few seconds on the 3 practise days you attend a year?

no point in spending the coin for a few trackdays. there are plenty thougout the year, Ill be at the August 19th day

sorry J-rad, not everyone runs BCT's by choice

Maybe because my cars a daily driver, so cutting tenths of my drive to work isn't really that important to me.

But in the few weeks I drove around on Adrians CSTs with 595s I was impressed with them, never really tramlined or anything. Well worth it compared to KU36 etc

there is absolutely no way I would put top shelf tyres on a daily driven car. As it turns out, my 32 is daily driven, and the 595SS gives me a nice daily drive, but you can poke a bit of fun at them as well and they are fine. For $140 a corner, I simply cannot complain. Keep in mind that is $140 fitted and balanced, its all well and good to buy tyres from interstate for XXX price, but youve got shipping, then fitting and balancing. I'd rather give my money to a local business who is offering a good deal anyway.

but whats the point of spending $2000 on a set of real semis to cut a few seconds on the 3 practise days you attend a year?

Keeping in mind that your tyres are the only part of your car that touch the ground Damo :P

i'm probably going to either try some KU36's or 595 RSR's next time i need tyres.

for me, my car doesnt see much driving, but when it does i want it to grip well. last thing i want is something that will just spin if i put the foot down. for some reason spinning wheels doesnt get me hard like it does other people.

if i drove daily and needed the tyres to last, then i'd go for something harder compound and maybe not as much grip.

now i got a house and the missus can see the bank account, i've gotta spend wisely on the GTR

i'm probably leaning to the RSR's because for the price from option 1 garage, i can rotate them better since my car does get a bit of camber wear on the inside. and i think KU36's wont last and i'll have one side bald with heaps of tread on the outer side

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...