Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sparkplugs won't cause detonation, they can but it is highly unlikely in your situation, it almost certainly CAS base timing is advanced, you are not running 98 octane fuel, or it is a fuel issue and is leaning out.

Get it on a dyno and diagnose the issue, don't keep driving it or you WILL destroy the motor.

was hoping it was the spark plugs in my mind but have a feeling its not. plus when its idling and about to move forward in 1st.... i can hear a belt squeek in a way, been testing it while holding the brake and letting the clutch out i can hear it more......... its never done it before til this pinging noise.....

this car is my daily car, be hard for me to get around.......... imo ....its really annoying :)

sparkplugs won't cause detonation, they can but it is highly unlikely in your situation, it almost certainly CAS base timing is advanced, you are not running 98 octane fuel, or it is a fuel issue and is leaning out.

Get it on a dyno and diagnose the issue, don't keep driving it or you WILL destroy the motor.

+1 have a look at the CAS position , see if someones been messing with it.

.. imo ....its really annoying :)

having to replace the motor will be even more annoying, do not rev it past 4k and no boost until this is solved, I don't think you realise how serious this is. 10 seconds on full boost with sustained detonation is enough to melt ring lands.

having to replace the motor will be even more annoying, do not rev it past 4k and no boost until this is solved, I don't think you realise how serious this is. 10 seconds on full boost with sustained detonation is enough to melt ring lands.

yeah! what he said!!:spank:

Exaclty, it'll be your base timing is too advanced or you have a lean out due to stuffed fuel pump, blocked injectors, broken fuel reg or blocked fuel filter.

Stop wasting time with all the other shit and get it to a proper workshop so they can stick a wideband in the exhaust and a timing light on then diagnose it as either timing or fuel.

Edited by Rolls

Would make more sense as it is extremely common for an annoying misfire at peak torque with stock tune skylines.

Pinging sounds like marbles being shaken around in a tin can, misfire sounds like the rev limiter, pop pop pop

Edited by Rolls

no need for a timing belt, timing light gave me a good reading

Just checking - you realise those two things are unrelated, right? I can't tell from your post.

The cam timing can be off and the spark timing can be fine, and the cam belt can be well past its reliable life, and the spark timing can be fine.

misfire sounds like the rev limiter, pop pop pop

it was making that noise heaps when hitting around 4000rpm... and also the pinging noise was just the intercooler pipe hitting the fan. ive replaced with a shorter bracket which pulls it away from the fan and sits nice and close to the timing cover.

i have fixed both problems but im in the proccess of getting a dyno and buying a timing kit, water pump cam belts. i am doing my best here in researching and learning more about the car.

it was making that noise heaps when hitting around 4000rpm... and also the pinging noise was just the intercooler pipe hitting the fan. ive replaced with a shorter bracket which pulls it away from the fan and sits nice and close to the timing cover.

i have fixed both problems but im in the proccess of getting a dyno and buying a timing kit, water pump cam belts. i am doing my best here in researching and learning more about the car.

might help to get your terminology right next time, would have give a completely different answer if you said misfiring and not pinging. Completely different things, detonation destroys motors, misfire is just annoying.

Elite/Rolls - holding all other things the same, wouldn't hot plugs slightly increase the tendency to ping?

I'm pretty sure a 5 is the hottest plug you can get in that size/thread/depth whatever. The factory listing is a 5. Like Rolls said, most unlikely.

Not impossible though. Usually dieseling is caused by lack of ignition timing or very lean mixtures

hmm well i had two sets of problems with the car... noises coming from here and there. The hitting noises were the fan hitting the intercooler pipe making the *tinging* noises .... thats fixed now..... and 4 out of 6 spark plugs were just absolutely f**ked..... i did buy NGK plugs.... good buy, fixed the misfire. currently driving the car at 2500 - 3000rpm. Everything seems to be fine ATM, but you guys have commented on the timing and cam belts, so i will be replacing them when i can.... i have seen the belts and they have seen better days.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...