Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Can't wait to try it can't justify spending 100 bucks on oil for big name stuff

why not or you just like rebuilds pinch.gif

most oil changes are $100+,

if you want Power then thats the Price you will have too pay,:thumbsup:

why not or you just like rebuilds pinch.gif

most oil changes are $100+,

if you want Power then thats the Price you will have too pay,:thumbsup:

I strongly doubt that a change in oil to a different brand of fully syntheticc oil will result in a rebuild :whistling:

I strongly doubt that a change in oil to a different brand of fully syntheticc oil will result in a rebuild :whistling:

No but running a cheap oil thats not right for the job in `st place is Paul weather here & run 5w30 pinch.gif

Its only cheap because its on special, United 1 5w50 in normally over $70 per 5ltr pack. Its a full PAO and Ester synthetic, not a hydrocrack mineral oil

United Oil is not a small back yard company, they are Quality assured and API licensed and bigger than most of the brand names you know of in Australia. Also have a complete range of double ester engine and gear oils.

Guys, dont get caught up in brand name hype!

Ash

Its only cheap because its on special, United 1 5w50 in normally over $70 per 5ltr pack. Its a full PAO and Ester synthetic, not a hydrocrack mineral oil

United Oil is not a small back yard company, they are Quality assured and API licensed and bigger than most of the brand names you know of in Australia. Also have a complete range of double ester engine and gear oils.

Guys, dont get caught up in brand name hype!

Ash

exactly what i was getting at ash no point following big brand hype if it going to do the same job

  • 2 months later...

Bringing up a old thread changed to the united 1 oil 5w50 from ash. It's fully synth and so far it has been great I now have good oil pressure on cold starts (70psi approx) and on idle it now is about 40psi instead of 25. So far I highly rate this oil and for half the price of royal purple etc I don't think I'll ever look back. If ash is still doing a bulk deal I will buying in bulk in the very near future.

Once again thanks ash

Does United Oil make any 10w40, if not would it make much difference running 5w50 vs 10w40 ?

I guess that 6x5L for $200 deal is long gone >_<

I think i's a 5W50 and 10W60.

PM Ash he'll tell you if it's still available. I have a few 5L bottles from my buy if the deal isn't still on :thumbsup:

Yes the 5w50 is fine and so is the 10w60

The reason I went for the 5w50 was price and the fact that it doesn't get track work. However 5w50 is fine for track also. Go to www.unitedoil.net.au and use the contact us form and ash will reply

  • 1 year later...

Glad your happy luvpsi

Sorry for the late reply, I have been offline for about a year.

We only have Ultimax 10w60 and United1 5w50 in full PAO/Ester synthetics available in Australia. We do make a wide range internationally but we only bring in these 2.

Also have the United 171 Double Ester 5w40

I do have group 3 Hydrocracked synthetics in 0w20, 5w30, 5w40 and 10w40

I can still offer the old special at $200 for 6 x 5ltr United 1 5w50 PAO/Ester

Ash

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Kittens in first to claim dominance of the residence, then puppies later From past experience, the other way around can be problematic to say the least  Those weird "Dobby looking"  little kittens are not cheap....LOL
    • At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...