Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It sounds like alternator whine. These get into your system via ground loops that are usually caused by dodgy earths or having RCAs too close to power wires. They can also be caused by cheap gear or a faulty alternator etc.

Have you just had new stereo gear fitted or did the noise just start up for no reason?

What type of system do you have?

The gear is fairly new about two months old. I have a JVC top of the line deck, mtx splits and jL sub and amp. It was running fine for a while and now the noise. I do have a noisy starter motor on start up though, could it be that? I also had problems with the amp causing my 4wd light to come on...

Mick

my amp is mounted right next to the battery and the fuses ect and i found when i move the amp away from there it becomes less of a problem.

i also tried buying some of those streetwires rca's about $40 for 1 and that just made the problem worse, go figure. i even ran the rca's on the outside of the car to see if that would work no go.

u can buy some kinda of thingo that u attach to you alternator and its ment to stop the whine

check to see if your earth is ok, try and keep RCA's as far away from power cables as possible, it's ok if they cross... i don’t see why having the amp in the boot would be a problem, i have a 1600watt amp in the boot and run 4 gauge straight from my battery and had no problems.. never seen my 4wd light come on

u running the front speakers off the amp or deck?

check your suppressor of the alternator, make sure all wire casing is intact, your amp cables should run down one side of the car, your speaker wires the other and your switch wire down the guts, try to keep all wires away from car wiring , make sure you have positive earth conections. 4wd light no idea sorri

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...