Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It sounds like alternator whine. These get into your system via ground loops that are usually caused by dodgy earths or having RCAs too close to power wires. They can also be caused by cheap gear or a faulty alternator etc.

Have you just had new stereo gear fitted or did the noise just start up for no reason?

What type of system do you have?

The gear is fairly new about two months old. I have a JVC top of the line deck, mtx splits and jL sub and amp. It was running fine for a while and now the noise. I do have a noisy starter motor on start up though, could it be that? I also had problems with the amp causing my 4wd light to come on...

Mick

my amp is mounted right next to the battery and the fuses ect and i found when i move the amp away from there it becomes less of a problem.

i also tried buying some of those streetwires rca's about $40 for 1 and that just made the problem worse, go figure. i even ran the rca's on the outside of the car to see if that would work no go.

u can buy some kinda of thingo that u attach to you alternator and its ment to stop the whine

check to see if your earth is ok, try and keep RCA's as far away from power cables as possible, it's ok if they cross... i don’t see why having the amp in the boot would be a problem, i have a 1600watt amp in the boot and run 4 gauge straight from my battery and had no problems.. never seen my 4wd light come on

u running the front speakers off the amp or deck?

check your suppressor of the alternator, make sure all wire casing is intact, your amp cables should run down one side of the car, your speaker wires the other and your switch wire down the guts, try to keep all wires away from car wiring , make sure you have positive earth conections. 4wd light no idea sorri

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...