Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, dont know if you guys have ever had this problem, i cant hit rev limiter, i can hit 5500rpm and then the car just dies, throttle wide open, boost drops to 0 and car stops driving but still keeps revs to 5500rpm, the engine just stops pushing........no boost no pull no nothing, just stays there, with foot to the floor.

cant for the life of me figure out what it is.

but sometimes it does go away, but instead, at 5500rpm it cuts out for 2 seconds and then just keeps going as if nothing happened..

any helpful info would be great.

RB25 neo motor, no TCS in the car all stock besides exhaust and coilpacks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372403-problem-with-rb25-neo/
Share on other sites

yeah i got stock ecu too wit mild mods and my ecu

freaks out when i try tap into the boost i even tryed resettin it

but when i put a nistune in it runs sick

^^ or ya spark is breakin down coilpacks plugs

but generally when that happens its more of a stutter than a

complete cut

no fuel cut though, it doesnt cut out, it just stops accelerating. boost drops, and it will just stay at 5500rpm, wont drop below that and wont go above that... bloody weird, cleaned AFM, new plugs, and new coils. checked for any leaks, nothing. reset ecu, nothing... im lost now.

if i didnt just get fired, id opt for a Power FC, but gotta save money now.

sticking wastegate maybe?????

also just found this out, it has one of 2 problems,

Problem 1: any gear it wont rev up past the 5-6k mark but if it does manage to rev normally, problem 2 occurs

Problem 2: 1st gear, revs and hits boost and its all normal, hit 2nd and it has a 1 second cutout at 5-6k rpm, change to 3rd and it will continually cut out 5-6k rpm...... and same in 4th, cant hit above 5k rpm in 5th, it can only get to 180kmh

so if its not problem 1 its problem 2...... pissing me off!!!!!! RAAAAGE QUIT!!!!

oh, bad news for me today, i decided to install a boost gauge today to see what the turbo is running, as we all know i cant read or make out what the stock boost gauge says, it says -7 all the way to +7 mmhg, so connected the new gauge which is psi, i plugged it in between the manifold and purge valve, and took the car for a run, the boost gauge hit 13psi at 5000rpm in first and hit 15.5psi in 2nd and 16psi in 3rd. so if this is anything to go by, im pretty screwed.

all i did was disconnect the boost solenoid and did the constant 7psi trick as talked about, or so i hoped. guess it seems to be a 15psi trick instead.....

just changed back to original solenoid, and it runs back at normal PSI, 350mm/hg which is 6.8psi, so the original boost gauge is pretty spot on. before it went beyond the +7 on the boost gauge (700mm/hg= 13.5psi) damn!

so the 2 pipes that go into the solenoid, i originally bypassed, hose-solenoid-hose, i bypassed that and just connected the 2 hoses directly without the solenoid in the middle. thought it would just sit at 7psi like people said it would, but it didnt did it??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Do they always do it from the AFM? If so... You know what I'm already thinking I reckon...
    • The other problem is that the pan is on an exchange basis, which would be a pain to have to send original sump to Oz for the work to be done. Would ideally need to be able to pay for a locally sourced core. To that end - I'd just fabricate one outright.
    • Not at all, pure street use, touge, even drag strip and you'll be fine   There's a larger version of it too, however would be overkill for your application. If you do plan on using that sump, might as well fit a headdrain/crank case vent to help alleviate crank case pressure. Your mechanic will also notice you cannot re-use the AWD windage trays on the motor too, as it fouls with the AWD -> RWD sump. However given your usage, you'll be fine.
    • @GTSBoy yeah but the MAIN problem is that "you" guys may know that but i/my mechanic did not. I literally spend hours to find differences between Stagea and Skyline engine (even here) and found kinda "nothing" Yeah one guy mentioned that the block is larger/wider but nothing about the oil pan. Of course AWD has different one but "everybody" says...yeah just slap RWD pan... and the parts number for my N/A engine and NEO DET were the same so iam using one from my old engine. And of course being in EU/Czech many of the sites did not even show(i need VPN to be here)... @MBS206NO it is not my channel and not my video. Dont even know the guy. I just post this as a reference cuz i have the same problem. As i said you guys in AU/NZD may know this but here it is kinda a new info cuz IF someone doing this swap they already have oil pan or they make custom one.  @Dose Pipe Sutututu Yeah it is AWD RB25DET NEO Yeah as you mentioned the pick up is in a different place ...but i do not drift or track the car. It is and will be strictly street and just "casual" weekend cruiser. With that "custom" pan as shown in the video...could there be some problems?  For others. Iam sorry if that topic "looks" like i want to show/boost some YT channel or numbers. Iam quite the opposite.  I would rather drive my car thru sewers than get the attention that this car gets here. I do not have any YT channel nor IG/Twitter or TikTok. I just want some info from time to time cuz here...there is none :-) 
    • +2 Mine came with a bonus flat battery. 
×
×
  • Create New...