Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item Summary: 1996 NISSAN SKYLINE GTS4/ GTR vspec 4 door, GTS door with Full vspec gtr gear Sleeper

Location: QLD: Brisbane

Postcode: 4132

Odometre: 94,000 kilometres

Asking Price: $15,000

Condition: Used

Reason for Selling: dont need

Delivery Methods: PickUp

Contact Info: PM ME

Extra Information:

hey guys this is a GTS R33 with a full 33 GTR vspec running gear and rb26

at the moment its E.O.I

and im up for offers over 15,000 alot of work has gone into this car

Biggest sleeper

pretty much stock

Nismo dash

brembo's

front lip needs some paint but only thing wrong with it

full Autech GTR body kit all round with a 33 gtr front conversion

post-68139-0-83317500-1311925360_thumb.jpg

post-68139-0-51334400-1311925366_thumb.jpg

post-68139-0-77107900-1311925374_thumb.jpg

sick ride

Edited by navanskyline
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372438-gtst-4-door-vspec-gtr-sleeper/
Share on other sites

I'd put money on it being an Autech 40th Anniversary GTR sedan.

http://www.jbskyline.net/R33/4door/Showroom/

I can't see a guard roller doing such nice work to the rear doors and guards...

Your car isn't this one is it?

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=227248&st=0

If it was original it would be worth more than a run of the mill R33 GTR.

If it is with the guards and doors and stuff, FFS someone go look at it and give us some feed back.

Or bring it to Sydney and I might buy it.

http://j-spec.com.au/featured/1998-Nissan-Skyline-GTR_sedan_Autech_40th_Anniversary-15503.html

it has the full Autech kit guards and the rear doors done not a autech one and no its not the one off boost its fresh from japan

for the work that has been done to it

its fairly cheap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...