Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling my 1992 R32 GTR

Location: Bundaberg 4670 QLD (Car) / Gladstone 4680 QLD (Engine)

Asking: $10,000 or throw me an offer

Phone: 0408 196 973 (Luke) I work 6am to 6pm 5-6 days a week so call outside these hours or email as I don't check this site a lot.

Email: [email protected]

It has a blown engine which has been removed and stripped down. I no longer have the time, spare cash or room to rebuild this car. Was running 272.6rwkw on 14psi before it died. The Car does come with the complete stripped engine. I've had the block bores cleaned up, 20' was all that was needed to remove the damage (needs final honing to suit whatever pistons go in). It was original bores before this. 1 Turbo is blown. The body is straight and interior is clean. The car has always been garaged since I've owned it and is currently in Storage in Bundaberg QLD, with the Engine at my place in Gladstone QLD. Car is not registered. Plates will go with car. Tread is 90% on all 4 corners.

Running Gear:

N1 turbos

HKS type-S engine oil cooler

HKS fuel rail

HKS 900cc injectors

HKS cam gears

Tomei camshafts

Sard fuel reg

Alloy surge tank

Walbro fuel pump

External bosch 700hp fuel pump

Splitfire coil packs

Z32 airflow meters

Custom advan airbox

PWR radiator

HKS FMIC with HKS hard piping 600x300x110

HKS primary exhaust pipes

DBA 4000 series slotted rotors, std brake calipers

Bilstein coilovers

Cusco castor adjustables

Cusco camber adjustables rear

Midori upper adjustable camber arms

P1buddy club wheels 17x9.5's

Sparco racing seat

Greddy a-pillar dual pod guage holder (greddy boost gauge, greddy exhaust temp gauge)

Greddy profec-b electronic boost controller

Greddy turno timer

5Puk Jim Berry Clutch

Nismo strut brace

Apexi power fc

post-44593-0-48377800-1312281897_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-78442300-1312281936_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-17074400-1312282023_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-09282000-1312282291_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-69824400-1312282426_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-01770700-1312283270_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-10491000-1312283543_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372836-r32-gtr-1992-blown-engine-10000/
Share on other sites

Also forgot to note that I also have a new in the box N1 Oil pump to go with it, as well as the standard exhaust, air box and fuel rail and a after market rpm gauge with shift light. Should note to the the clutch is in need of a over hall as well.

post-44593-0-76184900-1312363673_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-86111500-1312363764_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Back on the market

Unfortunately the deposit holder has been unable to acquire the total funds needed to buy the car.

edit: added pics of engine parts packed to go

post-44593-0-85528000-1314177404_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-45167000-1314177482_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-15959200-1314177537_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-86057800-1314177579_thumb.jpg

Edited by puke22

I'm no mechanic but I believe a foreign body went through the block. The bores where fairly haggard and the tops of the pistons had a fair amount of pinging damage (as shown in the pics). The exhaust wheel on the rear turbo was also non existent (as shown in the pics, maybe a big enough brave enough piece of piston took it on?), although the front turbo wheel spins freely and feels to have no resistance or shaft play. The valves seem to have escaped damage and still seat nicely, as the crank and cam shafts also only seem to have normal wear. This is an uneducated theory but I believe the engine was just run too hard with too much boost on standard pistons for too long before I bought it and the rear turbo exhaust wheel finally gave up. I was able to start the car after it died (while driving sedately believe it or not) but it just sounded horrible so I killed it and eventually pulled it apart. It also had no weird sounds or knocks before it died. I believe it was just run too hard on standard pistons because it came with dyno sheets showing over 330rwkw when I bought it and I did not have it tuned and only had it run 272rwkw on 14psi when I had it tested personally. So I'm assuming it was detuned and sold off to me... Please note this is my own opinion and I have very little engine knowledge and this theory should not be taken as fact. I'd appreciate no flaming of my own opinion if this sounds completely retarded :P, I'm just being as honest as I can.

I have cleaned the crank and cam shafts up a little bit to shown wear and confirm there is no rust as the engine has been apart for over 1year now (I've left everything covered in oil and oiled where needed and wrapped in rags as I originally intended to have this rebuilt myself).

I did take this car to one test n tune drag meet in its short running life with me, it can be viewed running on this vid at 48sec and 1min25sec (I lost the drag at 1min 25sec as I beat my estimated time :P ran 12.2 sec best that night).

http://www.youtube.c.../39/lxKHVVZG7y0

post-44593-0-32841800-1314265990_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-99607900-1314266065_thumb.jpg

Should also add the odometer reads 131000*kms, and the car has no rust that I'm aware of. I will most probably move the engine into storage with the car next weekend (03.09.11) so everything is together in Bundaberg. Will try to get some current photos and upload them.

post-44593-0-85155700-1314497034_thumb.jpg

Sweet jesus, if this is still available in a couple months i'll snap it up :P

Rebuild will set new owner back about 8k yeah? (Sorry not overly mechanically inclined)

If it goes before then, good luck to the new owner!!

Edited by thychiz

Sweet jesus, if this is still available in a couple months i'll snap it up :P

Rebuild will set new owner back about 8k yeah? (Sorry not overly mechanically inclined)

If it goes before then, good luck to the new owner!!

Might be more than 8k if you have to buy new turbos :(

8k would get a strong motor forgies etc

Some shops no where to hit ya

standard rebuild should be under 5

or put a short block from japan second hand and new turbos under 5

Do you want to sell the engine on its own?

I may consider selling the complete engine on its own and the car seperatly if I can the right offers on each. There has been a couple of people interested in only the car not including the engine.

I would much prefer to sell the complete car however, and for the people who have been and plan to offer 5-6k, please let me save your and my time with no. I will keep the car in storage for a rebuild at a later date if I cant get alot closer to 10k than 5-6k.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...