Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as some of you may know, my car hasn't been making the psssh sound when I go to fill up. Everytime I started up the car, I got the fuel smell in the cabin. DVS JEZ suggested its the fuel filler, the little gold thing the fuel cap screws into. Well today, I started up my car and saw the fumes of the fuel escaping from the fuel tank. This is not only a problem, but also a very dangerous one at that. Had a smoker been walking past, those fumes are sure to take a flame.

I don't have photos now but it is a very straight forward thing to do. I can get some pics etc.

What you need:

Gasket goo stuff(as long as its fuel resistant, it should be fine).

Wire brush

Flat head screwdriver

1) Pop off the fuel filler cover and remove the fuel cap

2) The metal fuel filler mechanism is simply, its just a cap holder with a metal flap. I didn't need anything special to remove mine, I simply grabbed the edges, jiggled it and it came right out. If yours does the same then this is a clear indication the damn thing is not sealed!

3) Use the screw driver and wire brush to clean off the dirt and crap under the lip of the fuel filling thing you just removed. The wire brush removes light stuff while the screw driver is good to get into the little nooks and dig that shit out of there.

4) Once that is clean, try to clean the lip that is still on the car, the black hose leading to your fuel tank. I was abit worried about doing this and dropping shit down into the tank so I just made sure to clean the outer edges.

5) Depending on the gasket stuff you've got, apply a nice amount in the lip on the metal piece you removed, on the inside(you will see what I mean, its like a U on the inside which I filled with gasket stuff). Then if necessary apply some to the black tube under the filler cover.

6) Let it set until its tacky

7) Push it back in. If I recall, the spring valve mechanism sits in with the spring on the top. Just remember the orientation when you removed it.

8) Let it dry a little then screw the cap back in and let it set.

9) All done!

Let it dry and away you go! Pictures can be posted up if needed!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey SargeRX8, can you please post pics? I'm getting similar if not the same problem you had prior. Would be good to have a visual to go with your instructions. Thanks mate.

  • 6 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

yeah who ever is doing this.... dont use gasket goo.... i used the stuff that said hard setting, but after a week it is still not set. It must need heat or something and you cant just whip out the blow torch on the fuel port. Going to have to clean it all up again and use sikaflex or something.

  • 1 year later...

Just ran into the same problem - awesome tutorial. Can't wait to try it out tomorrow after work!

PS: found this tutorial by 180sxnit on the Silvia forums - it's very similar to this one, only it has some pictures too! ;)

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=295111

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thank you for the feedback bro. Looks like it’ll have to stay off the road till it gets an ecu 
    • Only if you do not You will not be able to drive it with any serious load without risk of it pinging, which will either slowly or rapidly kill it, depending on how bad it is.
    • Hi guys, I’m new to the GTR scene. Picked up an R33 GTR earlier this year that needs a lot of love. I’ve been going through the hot side, changing all the gaskets and while it was all off I managed to score a set of -9s. It still had the stock ceramics so I was pretty happy to get the 2860s.  I live in a small country in the pacific with 0 performance car scene. No dyno’s no performance parts, let alone stock parts for a skyline. I order everything from Australia and do it myself. This means I’ll be running the stock ECU. Maybe down the track I’ll get an aftermarket set up and do a remote tune.  Will the car run -9s on stock tune safely?  I have a very heavy foot so I really hope so 😂   thanks guys   
    • perfect, no rush to address the leaking bush then, it's not doing much/anything
    • I'm not sure if it will bolt up, but.... I'm reasonably sure that the ID of the runners is somewhat smaller on the NAs. So it probably wouldn't be a good match at the flange where the top and bottom meet. So that would be a reason to not do it. And the skinny runners would be the bit you're keeping, which would be a reason to no do it. You'd want the big runners if you were doing any work to swap stuff. Why not just use what you've got, like nearly everyone else who has +T'd an NA? You don't need or want the TCS throttle or other stuff that is specifically DET inlet/crossover.
×
×
  • Create New...