Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i asked the guys to do all they can while the panels are off to prevent future rust. Now the guy told me about snake oil to spray inside the car frame, columns rails etc, through any little hole openings they can find i mean thats the only way to get inside there . Now guys or people with experince, do you think this is the best product for this ? or should i reccomend another product to the guys at the work shop?

I've never heard of snake oil so I cant speak for or against it. At work we use stuff called LPS3. In my experience it works really well. You can get it in aerosol cans or in a tin to put in spray bottles. The only problem is that i worknin aviation and it is approved to be used on aircraft which automatically makes it expensive. But it does work well. Here is the website anyway if pure keen http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/corrosion_pg/LPS3.html

ive used deodorised fish oil to rust proof car doors etc . . . .removed door trim and cleaned out gunk at the bottom of the door with a high pressure cleaner, allow to dry, block door drains with blue tack and sprayed the inside of the door from top to bottom keeping away from the locking mechanism and window regulators, when its dry reassemble and unplug drains and your done

Have you considered electronic rust prevention ?

When i typed snake oil that came up but i dont understand it, and is it even for cars? What did you understand from this electronic rust prevention.

For now im just going to go nuts with a fish oil spray can in every hole and cranny i can see ? What do you think?

Have you considered electronic rust prevention ?

You are thinking of the module fitted to a car that pulls the voltage current out of the coolant in the block so it cant rust as easily.

I sell a lot of stuff for all types of rust prevention at my dealership. There is upper body and under body, it comes in a tin can that is 1 liter.

You are thinking of the module fitted to a car that pulls the voltage current out of the coolant in the block so it cant rust as easily.

module fitted to a car = yes ,, pulling voltage current out of the coolant = no.gif never heard of that before.

How ERP works <-- CLICK THAT

I had one fitted to my daily a few years ago, cost $200 ish from memory. got it from tint a car

tintacar link

its pretty small, i have a little unit about the size of a business card under my bonnet, and thats all you see.

I can take some pics if you like.

module fitted to a car = yes ,, pulling voltage current out of the coolant = no.gif never heard of that before.

How ERP works <-- CLICK THAT

I had one fitted to my daily a few years ago, cost $200 ish from memory. got it from tint a car

tintacar link

its pretty small, i have a little unit about the size of a business card under my bonnet, and thats all you see.

I can take some pics if you like.

Are you saying this protects the whole body of the car? Does it break down rust aswell?

Are you saying this protects the whole body of the car?

Im not saying that,,, the people who make and sell it are though, yeah definitely.

Does it break down rust aswell?

This is taken from the FAQ page of the how ERP works link above.

Q. Is it worth fitting an ERPS system if my vehicle already has rust?

A: Yes the principal of operation works the same for both old and new vehicles. It works to slow the rate at which the steel reacts with environmental elements which cause rust. Hence, whether your vehicle is new or already has some rust, the ERPS system will work to slow the rust reaction and extend the life of the vehicle. With older vehicles it is recommended that the ERPS system be installed some four to six weeks before any rust repairs are undertaken. This allows the system to react with or neutralise any rust currently in the vehicle.

Do a bit of googleing and you will find opinions for and against, some people will say its a load of crap ,, others will swear by it. I figured, its only a couple o hundred bucks spent trying to protect a $25000 car, its worth a shot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys I’m looking to buy an r32 gtr and it looks like the shop who’s done some work on the motor was done at Fujii Dynamic in Japan. Looking to find if anyone is familiar with this shop since there not much info I could find.    All I could find was the owner has passed away early 2000s and had previously owned a 1000hp r33 for drag racing. 
    • GTR front looks good. If you don't like it, I'll swap you a rolling shell R33 for it. Give you a fresh base to start with.
    • soon I also prefer the old look. At least I have more clearance for wheels up front now.
    • @PranK I think a few links in the original post need fixing...
    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
×
×
  • Create New...