Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finaly got some time to work on the new Khanacross Car.

I have punted a few too many trees and embankments with the first version, so need to get the second one up and running. The second one is a pretty good bodyshell, but the engine had a blown headgasket.

I took the opportunity to put an E88 Head I had from another car, and port match the inlet manifold, and remove all the polution gear...

I now have two injectors that aren't firing... cylinders 3 and 4... I have spark, and will borrow a set of noid lights to check I have signal from the ECU... Assuming that the injectors are stuffed, I think it would be a good idea to change/upgrade the injectors...

I remember reading about modifying R31 Injectors to have the tail (although I am thinking of getting rid of the standard fuel rail, and just using EFI hose with lots of clamps and T pieces anyway, just for ease of getting the injectors in and out)...

but I also remember something about using pulsar or FJ20 injectors or something...

If I can use SR20DE Injectors, I would have 12 of them lying around here...

What's the story???

Cheers,

Darryl

Edited by Daewoo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373870-injectors-for-mr30/
Share on other sites

Im pretty sure the stock L24e injectors are around 188cc, same as teh 280zx, 300zx (non-turbo) and VL/R31 non-turbo.

I cant remember but there is some 4cyl thing that can be used, like the CA20e pintara or something...

Ive replaced so many injectors im sick of it, I dont even bother with second hand ones anymore.

USA Ebay have new ones, and so does aus ebay occasionally. Im pretty sure there was a fella selling reco'ed R31 units for a good price.

If you want to get rid of teh standard fuel rail, look for PALLNET on the web

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...