Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So what are the stock skirt & fbars made out of?

The reason I'm asking is I need to repair some cracks. Everyone says to fiberglass it up. But if you use the wrong resin, all that hard work is just going to come off when the road gets a little bumpy.

I know epoxy only sticks to epoxy, and for polyester and vinylester you should their respective resins...

Anyone got any ideas?

Hi!

I do not know much about the resins and that but when I used to get it for our company (we made custom panels) I just told the guys at the fibreglass workshop what we were doing (Kirkside in Perth) and they were really helpful. They even sent their expert over to help us make models of a protoype firbeglass shell for a sportscar.

So the best bet would be to take it to one of these types of workshops, and they will show you what you are after, how to mix it and everything!

This is my opinion anyway, if you want to do it yourself, and learn about it for future reference! :D

The bumper and side skirts are usually made out of a plastic called ABS. There will be some form of branding on the inside of the product confirming this. Just look for the ABS lettering. The plastic is injection moulded and can be repaired using any quality polyester resin two part system(resin and catylist) The trick is to get the oriniginal parts super clean with a good quality acetone. Just remember : no clean, no stick ! Then you need to get the original parts back together and find a way to hold them there then brush a thin coat of catylised polyester resin on the area, wait till it starts to gell . Then apply a layer of fiberglass or another very strong material on the gelling surface ,squeezing or rolling it into place. the let it cure completely. To finish it off mix up some more resin and paint it over the rest of the exposed fiberglass and let cure.

Now If your head hasnt exploded by now from all that info you should be right

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...