Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There was a chap here selling some parts, in the picture he had an R33 bonnet which had a vent/duct fitted to the standard bonnet just above the filter location. It was NOT a flush mounted vent, it sat on the bonnet rather than moulded in. This is what I want. Does anyone know where I can get one? Most I find are mounted from under or flush mounted, but these ones that sit slightly above would be an easy DIY(no putty work, cut, seal, paint and fit).

Something like this but not CF http://www.justjap.c...518&cat=&page=1

Or if I can get one in CF, cheaper, that would be mint.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Carbon-Fibre-Fiber-NACA-Vent-Scoop-Intake-/260844260372?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cbb878c14

Is this price fair? Can anything like this be found locally?

Edited by SargeRX8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375973-bonnet-duct/
Share on other sites

My car is currently in the shop fixing rear-end damage - they're going to be re-spraying the entire car. I can't decide if I should take this as a sign to fit one of these ducts whilst the opportunity is there. I've googled around images for the 'real' NACA ducts on v-specs, and they seem to mount them from the top rather than the bottom (and then almost moulded into the carbon bonnet underneath from what I've seen).

I can't decide if it would look better or worse to mount from the top of the bottom - have the edge around it on top or more like Terry's old car where it was done from underneath. I suspect there would be better airflow from the top method, but I'm worried it wouldnt sit flush enough or look 'right'.

Gah!

Reference images:

DSC00031.JPG

DSC00032.JPG

The other thought I had was whether I should just replace the bonnet altogether with a GTR one (NACA duct in it..?), replace hinges, latch, upright, then try and find a bonnet mole to fit ..

.. decisions, decisions ..

Edit: And here's a link to the other thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/359775-could-r35-air-ducts-be-used-in-later-model-skylines/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375973-bonnet-duct/#findComment-5997862
Share on other sites

That kind of looks nice but I also kind of don't like it. This is what I want and I want it in CF. My car is white, and anything CF on white looks minty.

I really want it where it is in the pic I attached but I can see use for both locations, at the rear to cool the turbo, at the front to feed my air box. Ahhhh decisions decisions!

post-68383-0-19444900-1314969450_thumb.jpeg

Edited by SargeRX8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375973-bonnet-duct/#findComment-5997869
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Thread dig, Has anyone else modified their bonnet to fit a vent?

I've had to cut some of my bonnet re inforcement out to fit my turbo so I was thinking I'll put something really subtle in.

That way I can get rid of some excess heat/ have cool air onto the compressor housing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375973-bonnet-duct/#findComment-7430336
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I know this is a Cosmetic threat, but the mention of cooling down the turbo triggered the memory of a tech article I read once on the benefits of reducing the amount of heat lost by using wraps and blankets and such.

Interesting read: (ignore the product placement, the theory is transferable)

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3631/PageID/8208/Nerd-O-Scope-Keeping-The-Energy-In-Turbos-Using-PTP-Turbo-Blankets.aspx

Essentially turbine heat (of the exhaust gas) equals more power, and letting that escape ain't so good.

Cosmetically, I don't mind the look of these in the front near the airbox, but to me looks kinda weird up the back near the turbo.

tumblr_na6qxntlc51somw7ho3_500.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375973-bonnet-duct/#findComment-7451247
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...