Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU =)

Just a quick question. I'm kinda retarded with knowing gear ratios and was just wondering what the difference in these two sets will be with the SAME diff ratio, as in what would it do to my car / driving...?

Not sure if the Skyline R33 ratios are exact, it's the closes i could find on forums.

>>Note: The engine is an RB30/25 with a Garrett T04Z and Tomei 270 cams<<

SKYLINE OTHER

1st - 3.32 1 st - 2.66

2nd - 1.90 2nd - 1.78

3rd - 1.30 3rd - 1.30

4th - 1.00 4th - 1.00

5th - 0.75 5th - 0.74

Diff - 4.11 Diff - 4.11

Cheers in advance for any help =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376857-quick-ratio-help-please/
Share on other sites

1st is much taller in the OTHER gearset. That will mean more clutch slipping and possibly more time spent below boost making revs before it comes on boost. The problem with saying that is that the ratio is higher, so you wil be loading the engine a lot harder than with the SKYLINE gearset, so the boost threshold will be at lower revs. My guesstimate on that is that it would take slightly longer time in total to come on boost, although it will do so at lower revs, and then it will run through to a much higher speed before needing to change to 2nd and it will probably make a little more boost (assuming your boost is not being clamped is 1st by a boost controller with both gearsets - it's often hard to get full boost in 1st), and it will run through to redline slower than the Skyline gearset will. It will quite possibly get better traction with the OTHER gearset in 1st.

Every other gear is essentially the same ratio, so you wouldn't notice any change.

1st is much taller in the OTHER gearset. That will mean more clutch slipping and possibly more time spent below boost making revs before it comes on boost. The problem with saying that is that the ratio is higher, so you wil be loading the engine a lot harder than with the SKYLINE gearset, so the boost threshold will be at lower revs. My guesstimate on that is that it would take slightly longer time in total to come on boost, although it will do so at lower revs, and then it will run through to a much higher speed before needing to change to 2nd and it will probably make a little more boost (assuming your boost is not being clamped is 1st by a boost controller with both gearsets - it's often hard to get full boost in 1st), and it will run through to redline slower than the Skyline gearset will. It will quite possibly get better traction with the OTHER gearset in 1st.

Every other gear is essentially the same ratio, so you wouldn't notice any change.

Ok I think I get that =)

I plan to have it as a weekend car, so how do you think It'd go with the OTHER gearset for every day driving and when I'd like to put my foot down now and then? even a guess would be great =)

When not starting from a standstill, you'd not really know that you weren't driving the Skyline box. You don't often drop down to 1st when driving around. Although with this box you might be tempted to use first on really slow corners, which would actually improve things.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...