Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nah you need to use red back spider urine. its the only stuff that will get it cleaned.

and TRD guy, you can get the car serviced at any McDonalds. the oil they use to fry the chips, is the best oil for your motor.

lol.. thx for ur advise.. I just think, sometimes, why the suicide rate in this country is so high.. it's beautiful country and i loved being here.. but now I understand, person like you with ur spider and Mcdonalds oil crap?? LMAO. Now, it all makes sense.. but yeah, don't go kill yourself one day just coz ur brain can't keep on with the lifestyle these days... you can come to me , and I will help you :)

Edited by skyichigo

Nah, it's been proven by a lot of other members here.. coz I am dumb f**k who apparently didn't know anything about car stickers :) .. anyway it's gone now.. I tore them, burn them, mix it with water and drink it.. its all inside me now..

Skyichido,

Whatever you do, don't listen to Sunkist, McDonalds oil will kill your engine!!! He obviously has no idea what he is talking about and is just trying to stir you up and cause trouble. Don't worry though people like him always get what is coming to them! Some people are obviously jealous of the success of others and their awesome TRD stickers!

What you really need to use is Hungry Jacks oil, apparently it has something to do with the way they flame grill their burgers. If you know the right people you can sometimes even get your hands on the oil from the onion rings, it is perfect for your transmission and I actually found (after rigorous testing) that it even decreases shift times by about .0002 of a second.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmm onion rings!! Actually I'm a little hungry now, I think I have some decals around here that I can throw on the bbq. I cant believe that you mix them with water though, it ruins the flavor. TRD Decals should always be cooked just medium rare and then dipped in hot sauce.

Edited by Alkatraz

lol.. thx for ur advise.. I just think, sometimes, why the suicide rate in this country is so high.. it's beautiful country and i loved being here.. but now I understand, person like you with ur spider and Mcdonalds oil crap?? LMAO. Now, it all makes sense.. but yeah, don't go kill yourself one day just coz ur brain can't keep on with the lifestyle these days... you can come to me , and I will help you :)

no Really im an expert, I had an M35 Stagea, which is the exact same Flux capacitor as yours.

motor had so f**king power

Skyichido,

Whatever you do, don't listen to Sunkist, McDonalds oil will kill your engine!!! He obviously has no idea what he is talking about and is just trying to stir you up and cause trouble. Don't worry though people like him always get what is coming to them! Some people are obviously jealous of the success of others and their awesome TRD stickers!

What you really need to use is Hungry Jacks oil, apparently it has something to do with the way they flame grill their burgers. If you know the right people you can sometimes even get your hands on the oil from the onion rings, it is perfect for your transmission and I actually found (after rigorous testing) that it even decreases shift times by about .0002 of a second.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmm onion rings!! Actually I'm a little hungry now, I think I have some decals around here that I can throw on the bbq. I cant believe that you mix them with water though, it ruins the flavor. TRD Decals should always be cooked just medium rare and then dipped in hot sauce.

common man, who are you trying to kid. everybody knows hungry jacks have more fat. since Mcdonalds went Deli, the oil is used less so much cleaner. Hungry Jacks used to be better, but since Mcdonalds are using low cholestorol Vegetable oil, it is much better.

KFC oil is better for your diff, and coolant.

What does it mean if I've been using the oil from my local fish and chips shop?

After reading the last few posts I think i've made a major mistake and not gone for the Major Brands to save some money.

=(

I was actually talking with the CEO of BP Refining worldwide recently (he lives next door) and he said that they had taken a massive hit to their 2010-11 profits due to KFC, Hungry Jacks, McDonalds and the local fish and chip shops muscling in on their industry. He explained that all of the media coverage recently has been about the massive offshore oil platform fires but what doesn't get reported on, and actually hits their bottom line more severely, are all of the fish and chip shops stealing their business.

gkzlah, there is no problem at all with using that oil, you just have to be careful that you are getting it from a shop that ACTUALLY uses snapper as there main product. A lot of the smaller fish and chip places actually replace the snapper with hake and we all know what a drastic difference this can make on the performance of your oil.

Sunkist, didn't you go to school or are you just plain stupid??? Its common knowledge that the fatty oils provide far better lubrication and actually increase engine power. Think about it this way, do you feel fuller and have more energy after eating a double quarter pounder with cheese meal or a deli choice lettuce roll??? Your car is exactly the same!!!! I do agree with the KFC comment though, Colonel Sanders rolls in a 700hp big block V8 Chevy Mustang so whatever he uses must be good! Plus it has the 11 secret herbs and spices, just between you and me, I think that number 7 is actually a powered version of Nitrous Oxide, but don't tell anyway ok! Ronald McDonald drives around in a clown car so I ain't putting that crap in my engine!

What does it mean if I've been using the oil from my local fish and chips shop?

After reading the last few posts I think i've made a major mistake and not gone for the Major Brands to save some money.

=(

there's no problem with that....I run the fish and chip oil in Winter as it's thinner and cheaper.....it's more like a 0W5.........the Burger places are more of a 150W310.

If you really want a good oil though I have started to use Motul Extra Virgin Olive Oil......all race applications should be using this.....I also run a remote oil filter that I can control with the TV remote....Kills 2 birds with one stone.

Anyway we are way off topicwave.gif......this needs to go back to the how to change gears in an Auto with Tiptronic again.

+ = up gears

- = down gears

But the gearbox ECU will override your thoughts if you go outside it's working constraint's shifting down.

the ECO button in the centre console is overdrive...sort of like a 6th gear!.......DON'T whatever you do put the SNOW button on while not in the snow!......you will break the diff!.....even worse if you you have bigger wheels as you could break an engine mount!

DON'T whatever you do put the SNOW button on while not in the snow!......you will break the diff!.....even worse if you you have bigger wheels as you could break an engine mount!

I've actually looked into this a little with my V35. Done some 0 - 100's etc. And im pretty sure having the snow button on makes you accelerate quicker. It all makes sense you know, In the snow you want more traction - therefore, when you put snow mode on, your wheels (bigger the better but be careful not to hurt the engine) grip into the ground a lot more.

I've seen an increase of at least 8 seconds.

I can't believe that my simple thread will become a post with the most funniest comments around.. Oh..my. As with the oil, I'll stick with the healthy fish oil. I don't like too much of the KFC, Hungry Jacks and whatever shits from them lol.. As you can see, too much fat asses already here in Australia.... It won't happened to my V35, ..never.. let it became ugly fat coupe.. :)

Does anyone else weep for humanity? Wow.

lol... I can see the future (imagine 10 years from now)

Scene: Father giving oldest son their first car.

Father: Son, here is your first car. It was one of my favorite cars when I was younger.

Son :banana:, excited jumps in to drivers seat but excitement is quickly gone and replaced with confusion :blink:. Son looks to father.

Father: What is wrong son?

Son: What is this round thing in front of me?, What does it do? :wacko:

Father: Oh, son that is your steering wheel. :laugh:

Son: What does it do?

Father: You turn it to make your car go in the direction you want it to go but don't turn it too quickly or the motor will be f**ked.

Son: Are you sure dad? Don't I steer the car with the stick in the center of the car with the + and - next to it? :geek:

Oh the humanity...

I've known what I need to know.. so this topic is no more use for me.. unless for some people who love bitchin on the screen , feel free to use this thread.. It's been fun chattin to all of you.. especially with all those losers (f*kin 200$ for a english conversion, LMAO.. get a better life, instead of rippin off people out there :)

Edited by skyichigo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...