Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, it's on again!

Was a really great event last year.

I won't be running (engine), nor will Berry be back with the 32 (engine), but I know Coop is bringing his awesome 32GTR down from Townsville.

Anyone else planning on coming? It's next weekend! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377250-jap-nats-at-lakeside-25th-sept/
Share on other sites

Yeah would be cool to be running this year but not to be..... Should be fun, Coop's thing is basically a carbon copy of Giant's R32, so it's quick!

I was taken aback when he gave it the herbs for the first time during happy laps at QR on Saturday, forgotten how quick a fast one is!

Well done Noddy, I wandered by your car a couple of times but never spotted you!

I'm proud of EvoCoop finishing 2nd. Not bad for a bloke from Townsville who'd not run at Lakeside until a couple of days prior.

Double proud that he bounced back from a couple of days earlier when he hit the armco quite hard and we had to scramble to repair it. He went on to regain his nerve and punch out low 56 second laps. Bloody quick! a LOT quicker than me!

Also tipping my hat to Gools, he did very very well to win it, even if he does choose to run a bloody Evo :)

lesson is aero > power at Lakeside. Coop's 32 looked positively scary over drop off after the bridge into the downhill left hander before Hungry! Whereas the massively winged, splittered, diffussered and canarded Gools Evo was glued to the ground.

Jap Nats needs some tyre rules though. You got people using full slicks, the Hoosier R6 which may as well be a slick, and then the majority of people on semis.

Yeah, having some rules would take a lot of the whinging out of it. I know though that Gools runs the Hankook "slick" becuase the price is about a grand delivered for a set. Bloody hard to go past if you're doing a lot of miles.....

Certainly though, aero (proper working aero) is king. Whilst his car has had a small power increase, by no means can 20 or 30 KW account for the approx THREE second improvement! Astounding.....

Well done to the guys! Coop had the front left off the deck just after the bridge and said it felt as though both wheels were off the ground.

What happened to Calum? Couldnt see a time listed and left before he ran?

John boy I think Callum was released into traffic, and damaged his undertray leaving the track to avoid an accident. Other car still spun avoiding him on their hot lap.

Pretty dicey! And very bad luck for all involved. Luckily no human or serious car damage.

Hey Harry got to agree on the tyre ruling. At this years AWD Shoot out we ran different rules to the usual Time Attack series which included a tyre wear rating, and the guys were very happy with the classes. I have had a lot of good feedback and will be basing next years series rules on it.

heres the vid of the shootout incident

i thought the release was strange.. but really had my gameface on and wasnt thinking. only had one thing on my mind and that was getting the car up to temp and myself into my rhythm to go fast.

hindsight says,

I shouldv maybe stopped at pit exit and allowed him past?

or ran around as fast as possible and straight back in to the pits to give martin the clear track he deserved.

but i picked the spot that would hopefully be out of his way. but it was obviously very distracting and caused him to make the mistake. wrong choice. my fault.

avoided being hit by probably a meter. very lucky that both cars are undamaged.

hopefully this situation never happens again, how hard is it to release the next car immediately after the preceeding car goes past on its hotlap? not to worry

Edited by scooby36

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...