Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Might be different in Vic but in NSW (a few years ago now) my mate had his rego cancelled because he did what Alex said, failed 1st inspection at joe bloggs, went elsewhere failed again, went back to the 1st place and passed, 5-6 months later he got a letter saying his rego was cancelled due to a failed inspection at the 2nd place, because different things were wrong/listed with the car compared to the 1st inspection (joe bloggs), So he had to get the car re-inspected.

hope that makes sense...there are losts of 1st place 2nd place in there.

Whether he was just unlucky and someone clued on at the RTA office stumbled across it or they actually go looking for it I don't know, but it can happen.

Does it?

then why did my lenient place, just write "2nd inspection" on the form with the stuff "rectified" when i did the rego transfer for my 32R? is it different for defects?

Depends who you go to, most places i have been to do it that too, its more so you get more time to fix stuff, you have 14 or 28 days if they fill out the proper rwc paperwork, if they just give you a piece of paper and fill the rwc paperwork on your final inspection there is no time limit.

Also beware of getting 2 rwc's where the paper work has been filled out on the first inspection, i know of one person who got a call from vic roads because they wanted to inspect his car assuming that the second one was dodgy.

Depends who you go to, most places i have been to do it that too, its more so you get more time to fix stuff, you have 14 or 28 days if they fill out the proper rwc paperwork, if they just give you a piece of paper and fill the rwc paperwork on your final inspection there is no time limit.

Also beware of getting 2 rwc's where the paper work has been filled out on the first inspection, i know of one person who got a call from vic roads because they wanted to inspect his car assuming that the second one was dodgy.

Yeah, i understand what you mean.

Looks like the OP's experience with the popo hasn't been particularly pleasant.

umm since when are coilovers illegal? Considering that 'coilovers' is just a fancy name for spring and shock absorbers, sounds a lot like hearsay to me unless someone can prove otherwise.

No mention of coilovers in this document, just keep it at the legal height and you will be fine.

http://www.vicroads....8340/0/VSI8.pdf

when they are jap tein that are not adr approved

also any coilover that has a lower adjustable perch such as tein flex

as far as your document doesnt mention coilovers,that doesnt mean anything

No vicroads document mentions you cannot take off your steering wheel and weld a shifter on there in place,i guess that must be ok then lol

My car has been through a couple of road worthies in its time and has never been done for the coilovers.

I guess every workshop is like a box of chocolates you never know what your gonna get inside :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...