Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

need your help fellas!

Looking to purchase a polisher, deciding between the GEX125 AC Pro and 150T. i know the 150 has a polisher setting, but between the two models the specs looks around the same. i was thinking the 125 would be better for the tighter spaces when polishing.

What are your guys opinions?

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377405-bosch-gex125-vs-gex150t/
Share on other sites

bit pricey though, i special ordered mine through bunnings - showed them the price etc for it off sydneytools and they beat it by 10% .. thats the best deal I could get it for!

I dont use any backing plate :) the FI pads fits mine just right

Yeap, as long as you mask up the rubbers well i managed to do everywhere. most machines are too big for everywhere really and you still need to give some spots a good hand polish

If you are looking for a Random Orbital that has interchangeable backing plates and more power that the GEX150T but costs $229 you might want to look at the Concours 900 Polisher at Waxit Car Care.

You can also find a range of kits to go with the Concours 900 Polisher HERE.

If you are looking for a Random Orbital that has interchangeable backing plates and more power that the GEX150T but costs $229 you might want to look at the Concours 900 Polisher at Waxit Car Care.

You can also find a range of kits to go with the Concours 900 Polisher HERE.

that actually looks pretty cool i want to try but no point having two RO's!

  • 1 month later...

I bought the 125 and then realised that it was no where near as effective at the 150T as the 150T has both the forced rotation mode (which is what you want) and random orbit. Went out and bought the 150T, as stated before Final Inspection highly recommend this unit, and it makes a big difference having a unit that can do forced rotation. I had to have the 125 held lightly against the cars surface otherwise it would bog down and just vibrate on one spot.

having struggled with an old Bosch RO only and then upgrading to a 150T, forced rotation is DEFINITELY the way to go.

a few friends have gone to Rotaries and didn't find them as scary as they thought. Obviously need to be more careful, but they said they're soo much quicker again of their prev units (Rotex jobbies $$$) - depends how serious you think your hobby is going to get :D

scr34min order it from bunnings, if you show them the price of it from sydneytools bunnings will beat it by 10% .. :D

thats what i did

also im in perth as well ... with a gex150T + pads + polishes sitting around ..

i do need to order the heavy cutting pad/polish still though

ive only got medium and extra fine ones atm

if you need any help or anything let me know :)

i have exams real soon but after that I should be quite free ...

^ i got mine for about 350 ..

no pads though

but from melb you'd have to pay delivery and whatnot ...

about the same really hahah

if you go down the bunnings route

http://sydneytools.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=1243&bc=no

show them that :)

oh yeah, i remember paying around $360 now that i think about it....

but still, $50 worth of pads in there, plus whatever was postage on them.

but yeah, probably the best deal for Melbourne ppl

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...