Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

highly unlikely country BPs will have 98

dont use octance booster, it does an awesome job of f**king spark plugs and o2 sensors real quick, probably not great for the fuel system either.

just use 91 and dont thrash it if your that worried, if everything is working properly with a standard ecu theres no way you'll make it knock just cruising along if you use 91.

Yeah not worried for when I get into Gero, I get free fuel once I'm there ;)

Thanks for everyones replies, I'll just take some octane booster for the trip, I'll try do some re search on octane booster and o2 sensors to see if they do mess them up.

Jeremy

Go buy a proper car, a BMW nyaanyaa.gif

E39 528i, 100kmh, 6.6L/100km AC + radio on., theoretical full tank economy of 1060km worship.gif

Martin, my old 32 (one over east) could get 650+km/tank sitting at 100 solid and that was fairly powerful... Something not right with your car....

Something not right with my car lol, give me a break I'm new to tuning! :P I get 600kms to a tank with my daily driving habits, that's better than most... I just haven't figured out the right mixtures for the higher load/RPM cells yet, if I go much leaner than it's set at now (around 14.7 - 13.8) then the car starts to surge. Also the transient throttle enrichment goes a bit off when I make it leaner, so for now I've left it where it is. I have a feeling Andy didn't set my injector latency up quite right when he tuned my car, so it messes with the target AFR's a bit. I don't want to adjust it though cos it will throw out my high load/RPM cells and I don't wanna tune them on the street confused.gif

1 bottle over 2 tanks of fuel is enough to completely f**k a brand new set of plugs, seen it happen several times. dont use it

This.

Octane booster is shit, stay away from it. Just run the 91 as Jonno said, it will be fine on the stock ECU as long as you're driving gently.

unless there's something seriously wrong with your car, you'll make it on one tank.

just feather the throttle slowly going up hills instead of flooring and you'll be fine.

I drove to geraldton in june (via coast rd).

If i can make it from duncraig > geraldton on one tank (60L) with a carb that hasnt been kitted from new, no injector cut off on decel/ o2 sensors etc then you should be fine or your car has problems.

unless there's something seriously wrong with your car, you'll make it on one tank.

just feather the throttle slowly going up hills instead of flooring and you'll be fine.

I drove to geraldton in june (via coast rd).

If i can make it from duncraig > geraldton on one tank (60L) with a carb that hasnt been kitted from new, no injector cut off on decel/ o2 sensors etc then you should be fine or your car has problems.

Yeah, my Line is tempermental

Socrates I never knew you lived so close to me.

Cheers for the feathering advice haha, I'll need it.

I made several trips to Albany back & forth this year (around 430 km one way) & the best I can muster is around 10.5L/100km, then again I'm usually the one overtaking people which means foot down 100% while this is happening.

EDIT: I bring a 10L fuel can everytime I go, just in case.

Edited by Mayuri Krab

I drove to Kalbarri recently and all the BP's i stopped at had 98.. i didn't have any troubles at all.

I'd recommend you stop at the caltex outside Dongara for a pie as well... they are awesome pies!

Cheers man this gives me a glimpse of hope, and yes I know, those pies are amazing!

I'm looking rather forward to free crays in gero tho ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...