Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a spare set of 19 inch infiniti rims with good tyres, how much are they worth? I can't seem to find any for comparative purposes.

They are off a series 2 G35/V35

Thanks.

Edited by IOWNU
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377796-19inch-infiniti-rims/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

I have a spare set of 19 inch infiniti rims with good tyres, how much are they worth? I can't seem to find any for comparative purposes.

They are off a series 2 G35/V35

Thanks.

~500-600 for 18" anyways, 19" same or more, depends on who is prepared to pay more.

Edited by R6n350GT

^I reckon it depends on whether you find someone who wants a set bad enough.... I used to have a series 1 V35 coupe with the 18 inch wheels and really wanted to upgrade the wheels to the Rays 19s because I loved how they looked (although the offset is a bit weak). Looked around here for months to no avail and in the end settled on purchasing a set either off Import Monster through the Japanese auctions or from the US via ebay or G35 Driver. Price shipped here was going to be around $1200 without tyres or about $1700 with. Had my eye on a set on Import Monster but a couple of days before I was going to place a bid my car got hit and written off. Bought a series 2 which already had the 19s as my replacement. I guess the moral of my story is that there are probably people out there who prefer the stock look and/or really like the Rays who don't have any other realistic alternative to get a set of those wheels for anything less than the prices I mentioned. Good luck if you choose to sell :thumbsup:

By the way it seems pretty common for guys in the US to put the Rays 19s on Z33s. Looks good too. May be worth exploring selling on the Oz Z forums too

yeah they are the 19's n15m0, i tend to find that most people buying our rims or at least enquiring are other imports...

but agreed, every sale is down to both parties, some people may want them, some may not... hold out and you will get the price you want.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...