Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Munky

Hey all,

I'm due to pick up an R34 GT25 in the next 2 weeks, and am very happy with it! Turbo was out of the question due to insurance and the likes, so I decided to go with an N/A R34.

I was just wondering if anyone could provide me with some solids specs for it? I've heard lots of rumours about the car, the most entertaining of which was that it can outrun a turbo R32. I'd be interested in hearing specs such as the KWs etc, and also what sort of cars R34s can outrun.

Here she is (aint she pretty :))

attachment.php?attachmentid=13356&stc=1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37789-r34-gt25-specs/
Share on other sites

Well looks like another proud owner of a 25GT :)

factory specs are:

RB25DE Neo Strait 6 engine.

Power 200PS (147KW) at 6,000rpm

Torque 26.0 at 4,000rpm

Weight 1340KG

You will be able to dust many a Commodore and Falcon as long as it's not packing a V8 or turbo.

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37789-r34-gt25-specs/#findComment-760006
Share on other sites

Guest Munky

Nah a friends mate did.

I like the rims. Will probably keep em for a while.

Planned mods are just basic to start off with.

Firstly an exhaust (any advice on what type would be great, keeping in mind that I am going to turbo it further down the line)

Secondly just basic interior like floormats and sports pedals and maybe for exterior some underglow (i know its ricey but its sick :))

Then I'll either get 2 12" subs to compliment the system in it already (I think its just the stock system with a CD stacker and a head unit)

Then I'll consider getting some new wheels. Im thinking maybe white rims. Any ideas?

Thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37789-r34-gt25-specs/#findComment-760184
Share on other sites

I recently just bought a 25GT which looks almost identical to the one you just bought. To say that I am pleased with it is an understatement. :)

For the exhaust I have recently (read: today) fitted an HKS Super Dragger II exhaust. It is a bit bigger than it should be I spose (3.25") but, like you, I am looking to turbo it too, so I was recommended to buy a turbo exhaust first, rather than buying a non-turbo, then replacing it later. Also very impressed with this purchase.

As for the white rims, unless you've got some time on your hands, don't bother. I had white rims on my Lancer and spent more time cleaning them than actually driving the car :D Nothing beats allow in my opinion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37789-r34-gt25-specs/#findComment-761051
Share on other sites

Guest Munky

Thats what I thought. As soon as you go too big, its undoing everything an exhaust is there for. That said I'm not going to turbo it for about 3 or 4 years (I'm still 18), so I think it could be worth just investing in the 2.5" recommended by Driver. Cheers for the input tho :) Got any piccys?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37789-r34-gt25-specs/#findComment-761124
Share on other sites

It’s well worth paying for a mint condition car, my one was VERY good when I got her, as new condition.

BTW mate you’ll find your insurance will only jump about $100 for putting the turbo on…if you’re lucky it won’t jump at all :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37789-r34-gt25-specs/#findComment-761332
Share on other sites

Guest Munky

Just a question, you reckon an R34 with an aftermarket turbo would go harder than a stock turbo (assuming you got the best possible setup)? Also does that justify a GTT label, or is it still a GT25 + T?

Finally what do you guys think about powerchips. My understanding is that it definitely wouldnt be worth getting till after turboing the car since I'd have to replace it anyway...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37789-r34-gt25-specs/#findComment-761627
Share on other sites

Munky to cover that....I still call my one a 25GT+t cause that's what it is...just like calling a GTS25t a GTR just cause it's got an RB26DETT in it...it just isn't one.

I'd say even though I used an R33 turbo...got a restrictive exhaust but used and aftermarket computer...my one feels like it goes harder than the stock 25GTt...with a better exhaust on my car I think it'll be quite impressive....for a turbo'd 25GT that is :D

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37789-r34-gt25-specs/#findComment-761773
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...