Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When driving normally, city/country the oil temperature is about 85C. Coming up the Mountain, about 5K long, full boost set at 9PSI, when I get to the top oil temp is 110C.The run home then takes about 5 minutes @ 60kph. When I get home temp is about 100C and when the engine is turned off you can hear the gurgle in the back of the block. If I let motor run for 5min the temp goes down to 80 and no gurgle when turned off.

This only started after I fitted the Greddy style FF plenum, fmic and pod. And I have used the air bleeder many time to see if air was trapped in the back of the engine. but never found any.

When stock I had the cold air induction plate fitted with an oiled Redline filter in the stock air box It is still in place.

Istill have the DIY auto tranny oil cooler fitted in the front of the radiator.

Things I could do are

Higher pressure radiator cap Current one is 0.9.

I have an Apexi turbo timer to fit

I am considering fitting an oil cooler. Already have filter relocator.

Get a bigger radiator.

Any clues??????????

Edited by 66yostagea
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378102-radiator-cap/
Share on other sites

I'd still suspect air lock first. Try parking with the rear down hill, nose in the air, bleeder closed, heater on full, and a half coke bottle full of water in the radiator cap.

Ultimately, 110 oil and 100 water is not too hot, so you could always just live with it unless it gets worse

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378102-radiator-cap/#findComment-6030213
Share on other sites

I'd still suspect air lock first. Try parking with the rear down hill, nose in the air, bleeder closed, heater on full, and a half coke bottle full of water in the radiator cap.

Ultimately, 110 oil and 100 water is not too hot, so you could always just live with it unless it gets worse

Never tried it with the heater on, so will give that a go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378102-radiator-cap/#findComment-6030263
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...