Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item Summary: 1996 White R33 GTS-t Series 2, manual, 124,100km on the clock

Location: South Sydney, nearer the airport.

Condition: Used

Reason for Selling: Doing a year abroad next year

Asking Price: $11k with wheels, $9.5k BYO wheels O.N.O

Delivery Methods: PickUp

Contact Info: 0433 731 300 or PM here

Extra Information:

Up for sale is my white 1996 R33 GTST Series 2 (manual) which I bought off a fellow SAU'er just over a year ago. It had 107,000kms on it when I bought it and has now done 124,100km. It has always been run on BP Ultimate and maintenance has been taken care of by Tunehouse in Marrickville during my ownership, and I haven't tracked or texi'd it or anything along those lines.

A service was just done on the 27th September, which included an oil change, new oil filter, new sparkplugs, new fuel filter, cleaned air filter + injectors and valves, power steering fluids, new rear brakepads, rear discs machined, retorqued suspension components, a couple new hoses and tested shock absorbers. Receipts will be provided.

The car has the following:

- Recently installed (Feb '11) Tein Super Street coilovers

- Just Jap front and rear strut braces. (not currently on the car but will come with it)

- K & N Pod filter (enclosed in Just Jap cold air box) with custom CAI.

- Full turbo-back exhaust system.

- Front mount intercooler.

- Boost gauge.

- Carbon fibre foglight surrounds (from SAU group buy).

- JVC single din Headunit (with iPod in) with sub and amp in the boot.

- Blue LED dash lights.

- Work XD9's (Gunmetal grey) – 18x9 +20 on the front, 18x10 +18 on the rear, wrapped in Kumho KU31 fronts and Falken rears,with blue Work lock nuts – all bought brand new in March '11.

- Genuine Nissan Skyline floormats.

- HMA 533 customized number plates (by previous owner)

- Tinted windows – not hugely dark, way above legal limits.

- Previous owner installed a new Heavy Duty Clutch around the 100,000km mark.

- Rolled / pumped front guards – by PhillB on theforums.

- Aftermarket alarm/immobiliser.

- It has a turbo timer on the underside of the dash but it hasn't been used/plugged in since I've owned it.

The one negative point is that I got the rear guards rolled to fit the new wheels and the paint cracked, and I haven't had the time to be without the car for long enough to get it repaired, as its my daily. – other paint scuffs on the bottom of the front bar due to driveways etc. (have a quote for $1400 to fully replace the rear quarters including paint).

The car currently has an S15 airbag steering wheel, the original Series 2 wheel is a bit tatty and will also come with the car – I am currently looking at getting it re-covered.

The typical R33 driver's side power window problem has also been rectified a few weeks ago which I somehow put up with for over a year – a new regulator, motor and switches was installed at the beginning of the month.

Registered until October 27th 2011 – just had the pink slip/roadworthy done with the service, which will be provided if sold before rego expires. Short remaining rego has been taken into consideration.

post-74434-0-58170900-1317132871_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-50823200-1317132949_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-04697100-1317132975_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-19782600-1317133022_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-22573600-1317133091_thumb.jpg

(those seats are no longer in the car - back to stock Series 2 seats)

Newer photos will be taken/posted up tomorrow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378454-nsw-1996-white-r33-gts-t-series-2/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

New photos taken the other day..

post-74434-0-87866500-1318238544_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-01161300-1318238593_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-20238600-1318238633_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-97978900-1318238670_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-28497300-1318238731_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-74725300-1318238766_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-24439000-1318238812_thumb.jpgpost-74434-0-66957200-1318238875_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-34710500-1318238915_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-10948600-1318238980_thumb.jpg

Open to negotiation, be it with or without current wheels! Heading off mid-end November so needs to be gone by then!

I'll be putting it up on Carsales tonight.

Rego ACTUALLY expires on the 20th of October I realised, so 6 months will be put on before any sale is finalised thumbsup.gif

PRICE DROPPED on SAU only, $10.5k with wheels, $9k without

Rego is up in a week so 6 months will be done in the coming days..

Price now dropped on Carsales as well, I would tend to be more negotiable with SAU'ers..

Offers welcome, worst I can say is no!

Here are 2 close up pictures of the paint crack on the drivers side rear guard, understandably/obviously not a huge selling point..!

post-74434-0-60618100-1318749123_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-26689700-1318749168_thumb.jpg

(The middle piece of loose looking paint is no longer there)

Needs to go soon...

$8,500 with wheels or $7,000 BYO wheels - before Thursday this week.

Going away for over a month on Thursday so car will not be able to be viewed after that until I'm back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...