Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone fitted 19 x 11 wheels on a R34 GTR?

I've been offered a set as an alternative to 19 x 10 but can't really find much info about wheels that size :)

19 x 11s have an offset of 25 & the 19 x 10s have an offset of 15 - so in theory they should have the exact same stance, so should sit right?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378587-11j-wheels/
Share on other sites

You may have to 'adjust the inner plastic guards if the tyre rubs, especially if it's lower than stock.

Also depends on what width tyre you decide to run. 34's are pretty accommodating for bigger, wider wheels.

Mine are 18x10.5 +18 and 275 width is stretched.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378587-11j-wheels/#findComment-6038180
Share on other sites

did a quick search and found this if it helps? http://forums.nicocl...34-t288174.html spec sheet is down a little bit

Yeah seen that a few nights ago and got in touch with him :thumbsup:

He said they only had to trim the rear liner a bit to get them to fit comfortably :D

Quite excited now about recieving mine :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378587-11j-wheels/#findComment-6043411
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I finally got some tyres fitted to these today & I can now confirm that a 295/30/19 on a 19 x 11 ET25 will NOT fit on a R34 GTR :(

They fit perfectly & look amazing - unfortunatley the car is undriveable as on even partial lock the inside of the wheels are knocking against the suspension :(

I'm hoping to get hold of some 5mm spacers & see if it pushes them out far enough to avoid the arms

A couple of pics of them fitted though, stock wheels have been refitted now though while I search for a solution

IMG_0008.jpg

IMG_0009.jpg

IMG_0010.jpg

Ignore the white tyre fitting crap around the wheels, I need to give them a wash :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378587-11j-wheels/#findComment-6063264
Share on other sites

They look massive diameter wise in that picture.

How much do they stick out now with the 10mm?

Drive it over bumpy areas and see if it scrubs on the outside/guard.

19x10.5 +12 and 15mm spacers were scrubbing on the rears. Left a nice thin cut all around my tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378587-11j-wheels/#findComment-6066996
Share on other sites

With a 10mm spacer it sits pretty much flush with the arch.

There will be some rubbing, especially once lowered. I think it will be a case of rolling the arches or possibly even Z-tune arches to give a bit more clearance :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378587-11j-wheels/#findComment-6067536
Share on other sites

damn, pity I didn't see this thread earlier, could have warned you off them...

Anyway, for people searching in the future, I'm running 18x11 +18 and they touch the suspension upright before full lock, so not ideal. I'll probably try and get some 5mm spacers to just get them out far enough to clear, but they're pretty much flush with the guards as is.

Does look good though.... :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378587-11j-wheels/#findComment-6072919
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...